Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: TR: J. Hill, D. Snively, 1997. Led: B. Gillett, J. Hill, D.
Page Views: 446 total · 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Left of Urinalysis there is some more dribblings of ice that constitute a couple moderate mixed lines up the center of the cliff. Angle in from the R on mixed terrain to gain the ice. Pick the R or L variation. The R variation moves into a bush (watch your eyes here) in a small L facing dihedral that leaves the ice quite honeycombed. Again the ice can be thin or non-existent in stretch. Gentle with those swings. Move up to the top. The anchor consists of trees at the top.

A direct start variation ascends desperate-looking rock past 2 bolts and a formerly-fixed? wire through an overhang to the L to gain the ice barely touching down to its L. Supposedly M6 to 6+. Perhaps this start gets easier with a bigger buildup of snow at the base. Is there a name for this variation? It certainly deserves a name since it gives an entirely different feel to the route.

Protection

Stoppers, short screws, pins.

Toprope Protection

Long slings for the 3 trees at the top of the first bit. From these trees, you will want a 60m rope or 2 ropes if you wish to belay from below.

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