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Routes in Nymph Lake

Get a File T WI5- M7-
Icecapade T WI3-4
Left of Urinalysis T WI3+ M4 R
On the Other Hand T M4
On the Rocks T WI3+ M3+ R
On the Rocks Var T WI3 M6+ R
Road Less Traveled, The T WI4 M3 R
Urinalysis T WI4-5 M3 R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: D. Snively, J. Hill, B. Gillett, 1997
Page Views: 353 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the R side of this cliff is a broader, inviting area with a smattering of ice than can be linked in a variety of lines. This route is great for toproping but lean for leading as the ice is often thinner than it looks and the ice above the bulges often peters out down to rock quickly. I would rate the conditions as we found them 12/4/2 as R/X on lead. Depending on the start and the exact line followed, you can make the line easier or harder. The start with the ice dribbling down to barely touch down creates a stiff surprise if you are searching for a classic WI3. The center line goes past 3 bulges of ice with the top one being potentially the most awkward as the ice rapidly this to pick blunting depth as you attempt to high step onto the final slab. The finish can be smearing with crampons. But dig around in the snow and you just might find some ice to one side or the other. The anchor at 75 feet up is two large trees. Long slings help mitigate rope drag over a log above. You can easily hike around the R side of the cliff to reach these trees. Fun, nonetheless.

Protection

Hmmm. Stubbies, perhaps a few pins or small wires. Kahunas in current conditions.

Toprope Protection

Long slings for the 2 trees at the top of the pitch. Can be done with 1 50m rope

Photos

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