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Routes in Nymph Lake

Get a File T WI5- M7-
Icecapade T WI3-4
Left of Urinalysis T WI3+ M4 R
On the Other Hand T M4
On the Rocks T WI3+ M3+ R
On the Rocks Var T WI3 M6+ R
Road Less Traveled, The T WI4 M3 R
Urinalysis T WI4-5 M3 R
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 35 ft
FA: Gillett, 1998
Page Views: 78 total · 0/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second ice route from the R end of the cliff and is located just L of a small overhang & tree. Someone may put up a mixed line through the overhang just to the R. This short, off-colored ice line drips down invitingly over a couple overhangs. In the conditions we found 12/4/2, we moved in from the R hooking & liebacking an ice pillar to gain a shelf of snow & ice perhaps 8 feet off the ground. Move L and set a screw above the fracture line of the curtain. Highstep onto more solid ice. Note that this curtain may not be well anchored as you kick it. Beware as the ice peters out to nothing as you try to get your feet on to the top of the curtain. Move R. Hopefully there is a little runnel of ice that will take a stubby. I bottomed out a 13 cm screw. There is a small tree to the R here that might hold something. Step lightly as you move up to the trees for an anchor/belay. A few moss sticks here. Felt more than 30 feet. You can continue to the top on lower angle ice or you can move up and L and sling 3 smaller trees to TR a line or two to the L.

Short but fun.

Protection

2 Stubbies and one medium screw. Longs slings (48") for the trees.

Toprope Protection

Long slings for the 2 trees at the top of the first bit. You will have to rap to get to these trees. From these trees, it can be done easily with 1 50m rope.

Photos

Apparently someone fit in 2 mixed lines between Urinalysis & The Road Less Travelled on lead. Jan 28, 2004

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