Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 50 ft
FA: unknown elk
Page Views: 579 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is the 2nd L most climb of the cliff at Nymph Lake. It lies perhaps 12 feet R of Icecapade. Short (perhaps 35-40 feet) but it can certainly be sweet. Some may disagree and say a climb of this length shouldn't get 2 stars. For those, Sorry. A short slab to a L-facing dihedral with sweet pick placements in cracks may delight you (source of the 2 stars). You can lead this or TR this (access via the gully to the L). You can descend the ramp, rap from the big tree, or continue up on low angle (but thin) ice to the top.

The quantity of ice on this slab may determine if you lead this or TR this. A bolt on this section might make it more reasonable. Again, the snow can be piled quite deeply against the base of the climb. There was one tenuous R tool placement in a bit of ice to start. Then, step up on small features on the slab. Find a R pick placement in a crack on the slab where it steepens. Then, use the obvious crack pick slots on the R above. You may have to excavate a large dollop of snow in the corner to find some sweet dry tool liebacks. Move up to the bulge and pass on the L. The snow can be quite deep (waist to chest-deep for us) above. Move L to the tree or continue up lower angle, thin ice to the top.

Drive the Bear Lake Rd from the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP. Hike the trail towards Nymph Lake 0.6 miles. Very shortly after you pass Nymph Lake and head toward Dream Lake, this cliff rises above the trail on the R. Hopefully, someone has kicked steps up this short detour from the trail to the cliff. Note, the snow piles up here and can leave you postholing to your armpits at the base.


Wires, pins, possibly a #3 Camalot-ish size piece, a stubbie or two.

Toprope Protection

Slings, a stubbie or two, a #3 Camalot-ish size piece.