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Routes in Nymph Lake

Get a File T WI5- M7-
Icecapade T WI3-4
Left of Urinalysis T WI3+ M4 R
On the Other Hand T M4
On the Rocks T WI3+ M3+ R
On the Rocks Var T WI3 M6+ R
Road Less Traveled, The T WI4 M3 R
Urinalysis T WI4-5 M3 R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: B. Gillett & C. Greedy, 2001
Page Views: 438 total, 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun little mixed climb up the center of this little cliff. It is the right of the 2 bolted mixed starts on the slightly overhanging rock where the trail typically comes up to the cliff.

There is often a fragile pillar touching down a few feet left of the start. From below, this start looks quite improbable to punters (like me). There is a small angling ledge below the 1st bolt. If you are 5'11" or there more than average snow, you may be able to start directly here. Otherwise, move in from the R, match on the ledge. If there is ice to the L, fire L, gain a fair edge at the top of the T-crack. Now, the crux, crunch those abds and get that R foot up. (Note: soreness may last a few days) Piece together a few mixed moves to the roof. Get a large wire or cam (hopefully) in short crack. Move R into a ice corner, get your feet on a ledge, inch L, clip the beefy bolt. Move up on lower angled, thin ice to the tree at 90 ft. Walk off or rap. Thanks, Bernard.

Alpine crampons not recommended. TR recommended for flightless birds who cluck (like me).

Protection

2 QD for 2 bolts, possibly a small wire, a few stubbies. Courage.

Toprope Protection

From the top of the cliff, slings off a medium-sized tree with rings & a 60m rope

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