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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,544 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route runs up a bolted route just left of the small arete route Hushed Passage (5.10c), bolted until you get up to a flared crack about 60 feet off the ground. Pro is adequate at the crux. Continue in the crack system up to a bolts, which are shared with Tag Team (5.10a).


4 bolts on the lower section, pro to 4" on top.


Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Give me a break! The crack takes GREAT pro at the crux, a sinker smaller (#5 or so) stopper. Thought provoking moves, great route. Jun 6, 2007
Joshua Tree
Schoney   Joshua Tree
I agree! The pro was fine. The fall is clean if you dont get gear in there. Awful is not the way i would describe the crack. It may have cleaned up since this was written. May need another vote. Oct 1, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Not to jump on the criticism-bandwagon, but this route is quite easy to protect throughout, and it's worth mentioning that in the interest of accuracy. The crux after the fourth bolt takes a range of pieces (I used a yellow Metolius piece), and the top--while physical--absolutely swallows cams. To be sure, any route can be scary, regardless of "protectability", but nervous climbers considering an ascent of Rehab should at least know what they're getting in to: an awesome, varied, and sustained route. Jul 4, 2010
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
Upper crux is waaaay easier if you span out to the arete on your right, then awesome steep hands to the top. I used #1,2, & 3 camalots, in that order. Jul 18, 2010
Gargano   Arizona
Great route. Nice movement through the bottom section on dikes and flaring runnels. Fat rest on a ledge below the crux moves. As said before, the crux takes a bomber medium nut. Short move and you're into the hands. Protects well. Steeper than it appears. Jul 9, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Not one of those climbs that necessarily stands out from the ground, but the climbing proves to be excellent.

My experience was that the climbing between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux of the climb, but maybe I just hit the jams perfectly on the crack crux (right after bolt 4). It seemed like no more than 10+ climbing to me there, but I have seen somebody get screwed by pro'ing in the wrong section. Additionally, the climbing between the second and third bolts is slightly head's up, a nut or small cam gives you a couple more feet on what would be a bit of a scary fall. Not sure you'd hit anything, but it might be closer than desired.

I guess the real crux for me was when I suddenly fell out of a 5.9 hand jam after flashing the guidebook cruxes, blowing the onsight! You know, just for giggles. Once I shore up 5.9 I'll be back! Ha! At least ze Germans got to laugh at my ensuing shit storm of profanities.

A couple finger and some 2"-4" cams for the wider crack at the top were used. Oct 1, 2012
I really like this route. It has a variety of climbing styles and protects well. The crux seems to be different for different climbers. For me it's down low, but some of my friends thought it was past the last bolt.
For the record, this route was put up by Petch. Thanks, Petch! Oct 2, 2012
Michael Dom  
Fun climb, I think the money was at the top of the pitch. Dec 13, 2015
Matt Carroll
Pittston, PA
Matt Carroll   Pittston, PA
this route is full value and awesome! I did the "crux" section by spanning out to the arete. not sure if this is "on" but the movement of this sequence was great, so fuck it. Im sure it would be harder without that, so who knows what the grade is, but it doesn't matter. get on this thing! Jun 8, 2017

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