Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro. 1978.
Page Views: 2,070 total · 26/month
Shared By: Gargano on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A bouldery start, protected by thin gear, leads to a section of good hands. The line finishes on a flared finger splitter and face moves.

Location

The splitter crack right of the God of Thunder corner variations. The anchor is independent of the corner variations.

Protection

Single rack from 0.5-2". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.11a
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.11a
This variation has been the standard for 5.11a for a long time at the leap. Jul 24, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Really? That's the first I've heard it called .11a. I'm not sure you're wrong, but the white and green guides both have it at .11b. The carville is a mess as usual. I've always thought this one is easier than Black Pyre though. Jul 25, 2012
BrianWS
  5.11a/b
BrianWS  
  5.11a/b
Tough for the first 15 or so feet, great hands, fingers, and a slopey finish afterwards. THe 2nd pitch looks awesome, but sadly, I had neither the gear nor the chutzpah to lead it. Jan 28, 2013