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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro. 1978.
Page Views: 1,818 total, 27/month
Shared By: Gargano on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A bouldery start, protected by thin gear, leads to a section of good hands. The line finishes on a flared finger splitter and face moves.

Location

The splitter crack right of the God of Thunder corner variations. The anchor is independent of the corner variations.

Protection

Single rack from 0.5-2". Bolted anchor.

Photos

BrianWS
  5.11a/b
BrianWS  
  5.11a/b
Tough for the first 15 or so feet, great hands, fingers, and a slopey finish afterwards. THe 2nd pitch looks awesome, but sadly, I had neither the gear nor the chutzpah to lead it. Jan 28, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Really? That's the first I've heard it called .11a. I'm not sure you're wrong, but the white and green guides both have it at .11b. The carville is a mess as usual. I've always thought this one is easier than Black Pyre though. Jul 25, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11a
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11a
This variation has been the standard for 5.11a for a long time at the leap. Jul 24, 2012