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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro. 1978.
Page Views: 2,027 total · 27/month
Shared By: Gargano on Jul 9, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A bouldery start, protected by thin gear, leads to a section of good hands. The line finishes on a flared finger splitter and face moves.


The splitter crack right of the God of Thunder corner variations. The anchor is independent of the corner variations.


Single rack from 0.5-2". Bolted anchor.


Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
This variation has been the standard for 5.11a for a long time at the leap. Jul 24, 2012
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Really? That's the first I've heard it called .11a. I'm not sure you're wrong, but the white and green guides both have it at .11b. The carville is a mess as usual. I've always thought this one is easier than Black Pyre though. Jul 25, 2012
Tough for the first 15 or so feet, great hands, fingers, and a slopey finish afterwards. THe 2nd pitch looks awesome, but sadly, I had neither the gear nor the chutzpah to lead it. Jan 28, 2013

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