Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 2,869 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben J. on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Be aware of Caldor Fire closures - Up to date info here: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/ Details


Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.

Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.


Once you've arrived at the base of Dear John, look up. You can't miss these wide roof cracks.

We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.


We had two new #4 camalots and an old #5. The 4's worked well for the first roof and the OW leading to the second roof. The old 5 was a bit overcammed and difficult to retrieve from the second roof, but a new 4 was close to tipped out... an old #4 or new #5 would probably be best to protect the second roof. Chain anchors are located just above the second roof.