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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 1,551 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ben J. on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.

Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.

Location

Once you've arrived at the base of Dear John, look up. You can't miss these wide roof cracks.

We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.

Protection

We had two new #4 camalots and an old #5. The 4's worked well for the first roof and the OW leading to the second roof. The old 5 was a bit overcammed and difficult to retrieve from the second roof, but a new 4 was close to tipped out... an old #4 or new #5 would probably be best to protect the second roof. Chain anchors are located just above the second roof.

Photos

Tried this route yesterday. I'm not very experienced with off width technique so this was definitely a challenging route for me. The roof toward the top is definitely the crux. Two black diamond #4's and one #5 protect the crux perfectly. I could not complete the final roof moves but I'm sure the beta involves some ninja toe/foot cams and maybe some creative jams. The falls are super clean and fun! Be sure to link the first pitch. I'm definitely going to be back to battle this beast down the road!

Also, I agree that the anchor below the roof is a little scary. Jul 6, 2015
Super fun route with wild exposure. For those with big hands, you can fist your way through the first roof (11b?) and up to the second. The upper roof can be surmounted without off-width technique, so don't let the width of the crack intimidate you when staring up at it from 70 ft below.

The anchor below the second roof, two 1/4 in bolts (with 1 being an old button head) and a girth hitched pinch equalized with tat, is a little suspect. Apr 24, 2013