Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 1,912 total · 26/month
Shared By: Ben J. on Apr 24, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb one of the 3 God of Thunder first pitch variations. Clip the chains and continue into the route's second half.

Fun, mostly hand-sized climbing takes you to a jug immediately below the first roof. Fairly straightforward movement and deep jams can be used to surmount this roof. About 10 feet of moderate offwidth brings you to a pair of old bolts and the second roof, which to me seemed considerably more difficult and puzzling than the first. A rail buried deep within the roof crack may help a little or a lot.

Location

Once you've arrived at the base of Dear John, look up. You can't miss these wide roof cracks.

We were able to easily reach the ground and lower off with a 70. Pretty sure that a 60 would also be sufficient.

Protection

We had two new #4 camalots and an old #5. The 4's worked well for the first roof and the OW leading to the second roof. The old 5 was a bit overcammed and difficult to retrieve from the second roof, but a new 4 was close to tipped out... an old #4 or new #5 would probably be best to protect the second roof. Chain anchors are located just above the second roof.

Photos