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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dario Gambetta and Tony Yaniro, 1978
Page Views: 902 total, 9/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Splitter hand crack for first 15 feet, crack becomes featured for another 15 feet, last 10 feet is the crux flared, splitter finger crack.

There is a second pitch directly above this route that ends with two offwidth roof cracks, I think the first one goes at .11b and the second at .11c.
There is a bolted anchor on the face above each roof.

Location

Mostly straight in crack climbing on crack a few feet to the right of the corner. Dihedral wall and corner crack to your left are off.

Protection

single set cams .3-2 and a set of small-med. nuts. Bolted anchor at top.

Photos

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
This is a great crack, the upper flared fingers are pumpy. If you do the hands start the crack is probably 10b... if you do the fingers start to the right of the hand crack it's likely .10c. The 5.11 crack just to the right (another God of Thunder variation) is absolutely stellar! Jul 13, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Top 10-15 feet are the crux. One or two tricky moves in the flared, off fingers crack, find a good lock before you pump out.

Bottom is probably 5.9'ish. Jul 2, 2009