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Routes in Dear John Buttress
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Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Crazed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rehab T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stone Cold Power T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stony Highway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 924 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | John Oberbeck on Aug 14, 2017 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Found to the right of Brother of John, the route is probably named for its roof, which bears a remarkable similarity to the upper crux on the second pitch of God of Thunder. Fortunately, this roof goes at 5.8, a far sight easier than God of Thunder's 5.11c crux. Mossy face climbing and cobweb-filled cracks make this one of the dirtiest climbs at the Leap, yet its presence on the Dear John Buttress keeps it out of afternoon sun.
Location
Found on the uphill side of the Dear John Buttress. A mossy face contains two 5.8 climbs, Brother of John and God of Plunder. You can identify the start of the climbs by the single bolts for each on the lower face. God of Plunder continues up to the twin cracks, into the chimney/roof.
Protection
A single bolt protects the early face climbing. Nuts and small cams protect the twin cracks leading to the roof, which takes a .3. You may have difficulty finding a secure anchor at the top of the pitch, so consider using a directional piece at the top of the route, and building your anchor at the top of Brother of John.
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