Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 109 total · 7/month
Shared By: John Oberbeck on Aug 14, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Found to the right of Brother of John, the route is probably named for its roof, which bears a remarkable similarity to the upper crux on the second pitch of God of Thunder. Fortunately, this roof goes at 5.8, a far sight easier than God of Thunder's 5.11c crux. Mossy face climbing and cobweb-filled cracks make this one of the dirtiest climbs at the Leap, yet its presence on the Dear John Buttress keeps it out of afternoon sun.

Location

Found on the uphill side of the Dear John Buttress. A mossy face contains two 5.8 climbs, Brother of John and God of Plunder. You can identify the start of the climbs by the single bolts for each on the lower face. God of Plunder continues up to the twin cracks, into the chimney/roof.

Protection

A single bolt protects the early face climbing. Nuts and small cams protect the twin cracks leading to the roof, which takes a .3. You may have difficulty finding a secure anchor at the top of the pitch, so consider using a directional piece at the top of the route, and building your anchor at the top of Brother of John.

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