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Routes in Dear John Buttress
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Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Crazed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rehab T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stone Cold Power T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Stony End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stony Highway T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Dave Schultz, FL: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,226 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.
The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.
Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.
Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.
Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.
The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.
Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.
Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.
Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.
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