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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: (TR) Dave Schultz, FL: Unknown
Page Views: 1,044 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The easiest way to indentify this route is to look for an arete that abrubtly ends in a 6' deep ledge 30 feet off the ground, that has bolts just to the left of it.

The top anchors sit a ways back and right from this route, so top roping is probably not a good idea.

Climb up the arete starting on the right side, and moving over to the left face after the first tough move, which is before the first bolt and definately the crux. This is a very wingspan dependant move that will pull you up to a decent ledge where the rest of the ledge looks great, but isn't.

Once clipped into the first bolt the climbing gets simpler, but not easy until after the second bolt.

Once on the ramp, the top anchor is found to the right in the small cave, and requires a 5.6 travese move to reach from the ledge.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is shared with the middle bolts of God of Thunder (5.11b/c). Stick clip the first bolt and you can remove the "S" rating.

Photos

tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
I started on the face near the start of Rehab and traversed the dikes to the right over to the first bolt of Hushed Passage. Safer this way, but not .10c and most likely not the actual start of this route. I finished up on the second half of rehab so fortunately the route was still challenging.

Next time I'll have to try out the correct opening moves of Hushed Passage. Jun 28, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
No need for an "R" rating. It's a sport route. Jun 6, 2007