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5.11a, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 50 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Dear John Buttress


This route runs up a bolted route just left of the small arete route Hushed Passage (5.10c), bolted until you get up to a flared crack about 60 feet off the ground. Pro is adequate at the crux. Continue in the crack system up to a bolts, which are shared with Tag Team (5.10a).


4 bolts on the lower section, pro to 4" on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right at the crux. Rehab. 7/2012. <br>
Photo: James Sullivan
[Hide Photo] Right at the crux. Rehab. 7/2012. Photo: James Sullivan
Climbing the dikes and flares in the lower face section. Rehab. 7/2012. <br>
Photo: James Sullivan
[Hide Photo] Climbing the dikes and flares in the lower face section. Rehab. 7/2012. Photo: James Sullivan

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
[Hide Comment] Give me a break! The crack takes GREAT pro at the crux, a sinker smaller (#5 or so) stopper. Thought provoking moves, great route. Jun 6, 2007
Joshua Tree
[Hide Comment] I agree! The pro was fine. The fall is clean if you dont get gear in there. Awful is not the way i would describe the crack. It may have cleaned up since this was written. May need another vote. Oct 1, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
[Hide Comment] Not to jump on the criticism-bandwagon, but this route is quite easy to protect throughout, and it's worth mentioning that in the interest of accuracy. The crux after the fourth bolt takes a range of pieces (I used a yellow Metolius piece), and the top--while physical--absolutely swallows cams. To be sure, any route can be scary, regardless of "protectability", but nervous climbers considering an ascent of Rehab should at least know what they're getting in to: an awesome, varied, and sustained route. Jul 4, 2010
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
[Hide Comment] Upper crux is waaaay easier if you span out to the arete on your right, then awesome steep hands to the top. I used #1,2, & 3 camalots, in that order. Jul 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great route. Nice movement through the bottom section on dikes and flaring runnels. Fat rest on a ledge below the crux moves. As said before, the crux takes a bomber medium nut. Short move and you're into the hands. Protects well. Steeper than it appears. Jul 9, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] Not one of those climbs that necessarily stands out from the ground, but the climbing proves to be excellent.

My experience was that the climbing between bolts 2 and 3 was the crux of the climb, but maybe I just hit the jams perfectly on the crack crux (right after bolt 4). It seemed like no more than 10+ climbing to me there, but I have seen somebody get screwed by pro'ing in the wrong section. Additionally, the climbing between the second and third bolts is slightly head's up, a nut or small cam gives you a couple more feet on what would be a bit of a scary fall. Not sure you'd hit anything, but it might be closer than desired.

I guess the real crux for me was when I suddenly fell out of a 5.9 hand jam after flashing the guidebook cruxes, blowing the onsight! You know, just for giggles. Once I shore up 5.9 I'll be back! Ha! At least ze Germans got to laugh at my ensuing shit storm of profanities.

A couple finger and some 2"-4" cams for the wider crack at the top were used. Oct 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] I really like this route. It has a variety of climbing styles and protects well. The crux seems to be different for different climbers. For me it's down low, but some of my friends thought it was past the last bolt.
For the record, this route was put up by Petch. Thanks, Petch! Oct 2, 2012
Matt Carroll
[Hide Comment] this route is full value and awesome! I did the "crux" section by spanning out to the arete. not sure if this is "on" but the movement of this sequence was great, so fuck it. Im sure it would be harder without that, so who knows what the grade is, but it doesn't matter. get on this thing! Jun 8, 2017
Mark Straub
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] This is a phenomenal and varied climb. Great face sequence to a tricky fingercrack crux to a fun steep handcrack. The gear is bomber the entire way and the only section that's even slightly runout is the face, but falls would be clean anywhere on the climb. I brought a #4 and didn't place it; a single rack from 0.2 to 3 with small nuts would sew this climb up.

If you're climbing at the grade, this route is a can't miss! One of my favorites at the Leap. Oct 1, 2020
Will WB
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] This is a great, full value climb. The finger crack has wonderful moves and good protection. The crux for me was holding it together while trying to clip the 3rd bolt. Ended up bailing out right because I do believe my fall would have been a grounder as my belayer was quite a bit lighter than me, and she agreed. I think the seam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt could be protected by some micro gear, but it was filled with moss when I was on it. There was a place for gear just above the 2nd bolt, but it hardly added anything. BETA ALERT: I also think the best way to protect it is to climb to the jugs in the horizontal just above the 3rd bolt before trying to clip it. Didn't know those were there and clipping from the juggy-looking white hold next to it was strenuous and scary.
Used a black Totem, .75, 2, 3, 4, .75 in the upper section. Probably more than needed, but at least we know what all goes. I was happy to have the #4. Aug 26, 2022