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Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Mike Carville & Dave Hatchett, 1990
Page Views: 972 total, 9/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Flared crack that is hard at the start and hard at the top where it is finger sized and easy in the middle where it is hands gets you to an intermediate anchor at about 35'. Continue straight up the face on patina jugs linked by flared seams and some very height dependent moves. Turn the roof at a flared painful hand jam and continue up the face above.
-Beautiful face and line, cool movement, some distance between bolts all make this a great route.
-The awkwardness of the roof and the hand jam keep it from being absolutely classic.

Location

Starts about 12' right of the God of Thunder corner behind a tall skinny tree.

Protection

Cams to hand size for the start to an anchor then 4 bolts and anchors.

Photos

Michael Dom  
 
If you want to supplement the bolts with some gear in between take a .5 cam and a bd red micro nut. Sep 2, 2016
Jonathan Adam
California
 
Jonathan Adam   California
 
Great description. Thanks! Aug 2, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
You can lead up to the chains at the 40' mark and set up a top-rope if you are not inclined to lead the rest of the wall. The first "pitch" is excellent for running laps and building endurance on hard finger cracks.

An exciting and well-protected lead in its own right. Jul 5, 2010