Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dear John Buttress

Brother of John T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fight the Power T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
God of Plunder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
God of Thunder (.10c Variation) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
God of Thunder (5.11b Variation) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
God of Thunder (5.9 corner variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
God of Thunder, Pitch 2 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hushed Passage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rehab T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tag Team T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 322 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ben J. on Jan 11, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start up the God of Thunder corner. Instead of traversing right to the chains, continue straight up the corner. Reach the roof, and make a scrunched traverse left and around the arête. Finish up the last bit of hand crack on Rehab and use those anchors to descend. The moves to reach the roof are a little strange, and, at least in my opinion, might be the crux.

Location

At Dear John Buttress. Start as per God of Thunder corner. Use the anchors on Rehab to descend.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
The climbing is not awful and is actually interesting, but there's a rope eating crack at the end of the traverse out of that roof that would seem to require more protection engineering than this route is really worth. Jun 14, 2016