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Routes in Rock Hudson
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Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doing That Scrapyard Thing T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Rocks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelvin and Hobbes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rankine File T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wayne's New Tones T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02117, -116.1629 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,009 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Woody Stark on Nov 9, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located on west side of the small formation immediately south of Rock Hudson. The Alan Bartlett guidebooks called this formation Hudson Rock. At one time there were two bolts; these were removed in the early 1990s when modern gear adequately protected the route. I speculate that it was put up during the piton era since protecting it with pins would have been problematic.
Climb the obvious right leaning crack to the right of the prominent overhang. I found this route to be great fun and deserving of two stars. The rock in the start of the crack is a bit tired so backing it up might be prudent. Downclimb south on easy terrain.
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