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Doing That Scrapyard Thing
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Rock Hudson
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Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doing That Scrapyard Thing T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Rocks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelvin and Hobbes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rankine File T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wayne's New Tones T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02117, -116.1629 |
| FA: | Tim Powell and Dan Ahlborn 1977 |
| Page Views: | 502 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Dec 27, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on the northwest corner of Rock Hudson in an alcove made up of the main cliff and a huge boulder. Around right (west) is a large, sunny terrace that can provide access to Kelvin and Hobbes and Rankine File. This route is almost always shaded.
Starting at the base of a chimney formed by the main cliff and a huge boulder, climb a small left-facing corner system past horizontals. Finish up a thin, slightly left-leaning finger crack.
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