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Routes in Rock Hudson
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Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doing That Scrapyard Thing T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Rocks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelvin and Hobbes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rankine File T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wayne's New Tones T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02127, -116.16291 |
| FA: | Donette & Todd Swain |
| Page Views: | 637 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Dec 27, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start on the terrace on the west end of the Rock Hudson formation. This terrace is most easily reached by walking up and right on ledges starting on the northwest side of the formation (going up by the base of Doing That Scrapyard Thing). This route starts in a chimney that is about 20 feet down and left of the start of Kelvin and Hobbes. The chimney is formed by the main cliff on the right and a huge boulder on the left.
Move left (north) into the chimney on top of some chockstones to gain a hand crack. Climb up the left-leaning hand crack to a horizontal, then step right to a finger crack. Follow this finger and narrow hand crack up to a horizontal. Move right and around the corner in the horizontal crack to the platform above Kelvin and Hobbes, Less Than Zero and Nereltne.
Note: the 5.7 grade is given for stemming with your left foot off the chimney to the left of the finger crack. If you climb the finger crack keeping both feet on the main wall, the route is much harder.
Location
Start on the terrace on the west end of the Rock Hudson formation. This terrace is most easily reached by walking up and right on ledges starting on the northwest side of the formation (going up by the base of Doing That Scrapyard Thing). This route starts in a chimney that is about 20 feet down and left of the start of Kelvin and Hobbes. The chimney is formed by the main cliff on the right and a huge boulder on the left.
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