Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | John Long, Richard Harrison and Ging Gingrich, February 1973 FFA: John Bachar, 1979 |
Page Views: | 16,364 total · 60/month |
Shared By: | C Miller on Jul 17, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
There are two different starts to this route - 1) climb the seam directly with no protection, or 2) climb past a bolt just right of the seam.
Thin and delicate slab moves from the ground gain a stance below the start of the crack where you can get some gear. Enter the crack and lieback/jam up a thin crack (crux) to a horizontal, after which the crack widens and enjoyable jamming past a steep bulge leads to the top.
Descend by walking down the south shoulder (climber's right).
A true Josh classic with varied, interesting moves up a clean face.
- This is one of the climbs that John Bachar used to routinely solo back in the late 70's/early 80's. Other routes regularly soloed were Left Ski Track (5.11a), More Monkey than Funky (5.11b) and Spider Line (5.11d).
Location
Hot Rocks is the masterpiece of this wall and climbs a line just right of center identified as a seam that higher widens and forms a crack.
Just left of this route is the thin and technical Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) while further left is the widening crack of Looney Tunes.
10 Comments