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Wayne's New Tones
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Rock Hudson
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Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Doing That Scrapyard Thing T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Rocks T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelvin and Hobbes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Rankine File T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wayne's New Tones T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02117, -116.1629 |
| FA: | Todd & Donette Swain, Stuart Wagstaff and Helen 12-1992 |
| Page Views: | 519 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Dec 27, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start roughly 150 feet to the right of Hot Rocks, on a smaller formation that sits slightly in front of the main cliff. You will likely pass by this face as you approach Rock Hudson heading for Hot Rocks or Looney Tunes. Just right of this line is a right-slanting crack/corner system, the line of Gem Nabors.
Climb up past a large flake to a stance with a bolt. Go up past a second bolt, then trend slightly up and left to a short crack and the top.
Descend down and left on a ramp, tunneling under a boulder near the bottom.
Location
Start roughly 150 feet to the right of Hot Rocks, on a smaller formation that sits slightly in front of the main cliff. You will likely pass by this face as you approach Rock Hudson heading for Hot Rocks or Looney Tunes. Just right of this line is a right-slanting crack/corner system, the line of Gem Nabors.
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