Type: Trad, 23 ft (7 m)
FA: Bruce Bindner 1985
Page Views: 3,090 total · 15/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route

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This route is pretty good and for some reason has a sort of internet driven mystique about it.... highly recommended. Wide section is physical, and leaning, and will be the hardest 16 feet of climbing you will do all day. The crux is the thin top out to the OW that ends abruptly when your feet swing around the corner and land on a sidewalk. Be sure to protect the follower with a 1" cam or similar that you can place after the crux. Without this, the follower will for sure clang pretty heavy into two ledge systems and plenty of toothy monzonite. Ugly!


This route is located up and to the right of Gem Nabors and is easily seen from the end of the "C" loop camping area. Walk out toward the White Rastafarian and look North.. can't miss it.


Pro is good with larger cams. Nothing outlandish, just a few larger Camalots and some small stuff (1" to 2") for the crux area and to protect the follower.