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Routes in Rock Hudson

Absolute Zero T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gem Nabors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hot Rocks T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ipecac T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Less than Zero TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Looney Tunes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nereltne T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stand and Deliver (aka Spanish Bombs) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: David Rubine, Don Mealing, Michael Wells 3/80
Page Views: 705 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 21, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This climb is the left-most line of bolts on Rock Hudson's E Face. This line is left of Looney Tunes and Right of the Start of Nerelente. Climb up a steepening slab on prgressively harder moves to reach a disgustingly thin crux stepping left up onto a lower angle slab. From there you can proceed to climb up the Left facing corner above (hand-to-fist gear or just run it out) or up the face to the left (crumbling, TR it) either of which is OK.

The crux move felt like 5.11a to me (harder than The Vampire (10d) or British Airways (11a), more like Buford's House Of Liver (11a) Then again I am not a good friction climber. This also felt harder than Hot Rocks (11c)... but that's another story.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3" for anchors

Photos

Kevin Mokracek
Burbank
 
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
 
I started to get back into climbing again this past year after a 10 year "break", having kids will do that I guess. I saw Absolute Zero last week while I was out there for the day and jumped on it and was pleasantly surprised to fire it first try, stuck a purple Totem Cam in the crack before the last bolt giving me a little extra courage. This was a good example of JT slab climbing. Mar 1, 2013
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10c
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10c
I felt that the grade was correct at 10c, via the lead. TB must have gotten off route a bit... Jan 28, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Decent climbing with good protection. The bolts have been replaced and are 3/8". Sep 4, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Like I said, I'm no J-tree friction expert...but I got The Vampire on lead, and I'm measuring difficulty based on my falling off of it. I was climbing in a pair of shoes I refer to as my "bunny slippers" but that's how I did all the routes mentioned, and I fell off of this one... On TR! Jan 9, 2004
Josh Beck
  5.10c
Josh Beck  
  5.10c
Definitely much easier than the similar move on The Vampire and nothing like Hot Rocks. 1 star of 5 at best though. Not a complete bomb but neither very memorable or recommendable IMO. Jan 9, 2004
Randy
  5.10c
Randy  
  5.10c
Harder than The Vampire or British Airways (or Hot Rocks)!! Maybe new shoes are in order. FA: was David Rubine, Don MEaling & Michael Wells, March, 1980. Jan 9, 2004