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Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, December 1997
Page Views: 1,052 total, 6/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Yet another classic face climb by Bob Gaines... Begin just left of The Highwayman and make committing moves in a left tending direction to the first bolt. Continue past four more bolts and one piton to the crux section. Very difficult moves are encountered getting to the sixth bolt (tenuous clip!) and short traverse to the thin crack (aka Skyline Finish of The Highwayman) after the 6th bolt. Two more pitons and gear protect the thin crack to the top. Four out of five stars.

Protection

Quickdraws for 6 bolts and three pitons. TCU's (#1 - #4) or brass / small stoppers are useful for the thin crack finish. Medium cams for the anchor.

Photos

^^^ agreed. Things start easy enough with big holds, you bust a few moves, and just when the angle eases off and you think it's in the bag here comes the SLAP in the face slabby crux. Single-crystal crimping type nastiness. Blew a hole in my finger after about two goes. Jan 5, 2013
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Desperate. Apr 27, 2008
Bobby Fredin  
 
Great long climb with good protection of bolts and fixed pins. There is a substantial runout to the first bolt. The moves to the 6th bolt (hard to clip) and the traverse to the crack are very hard. Thought it might be harder than 12b. The anchors at the top are back. Nov 29, 2004
Lighten up Chris...It isn't as if a hammer and chisel were used to make an additional hold. It's my understanding that the edge, large enough for one and a half finger tips, was the result of pounding in a copperhead when the route was established on aid. The climbing is excellent on excellent rock.

Six bolts for 80' of sustained climbing a sport route? How many sport routes require gear placements? Yes, the anchors are gone. Feb 6, 2004
Randy  
Bob placed a two bolt anchor atop this route on FA (12/97), but I guess it has been removed. He called it a sport route (with all the fixed gear), but maybe not? Feb 6, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.12b
C Miller   CA  
  5.12b
Great technical climbing with continuous moves throughout, but the beat-out seam detracts slightly from the overall quality of the route. Three stars out of five. Feb 6, 2004