Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, December 1997
Page Views: 1,130 total · 6/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Yet another classic face climb by Bob Gaines... Begin just left of The Highwayman and make committing moves in a left tending direction to the first bolt. Continue past four more bolts and one piton to the crux section. Very difficult moves are encountered getting to the sixth bolt (tenuous clip!) and short traverse to the thin crack (aka Skyline Finish of The Highwayman) after the 6th bolt. Two more pitons and gear protect the thin crack to the top. Four out of five stars.


Quickdraws for 6 bolts and three pitons. TCU's (#1 - #4) or brass / small stoppers are useful for the thin crack finish. Medium cams for the anchor.


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Great technical climbing with continuous moves throughout, but the beat-out seam detracts slightly from the overall quality of the route. Three stars out of five. Feb 6, 2004
Bob placed a two bolt anchor atop this route on FA (12/97), but I guess it has been removed. He called it a sport route (with all the fixed gear), but maybe not? Feb 6, 2004
Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
Lighten up Chris...It isn't as if a hammer and chisel were used to make an additional hold. It's my understanding that the edge, large enough for one and a half finger tips, was the result of pounding in a copperhead when the route was established on aid. The climbing is excellent on excellent rock.

Six bolts for 80' of sustained climbing a sport route? How many sport routes require gear placements? Yes, the anchors are gone. Feb 6, 2004
Bobby Fredin  
Great long climb with good protection of bolts and fixed pins. There is a substantial runout to the first bolt. The moves to the 6th bolt (hard to clip) and the traverse to the crack are very hard. Thought it might be harder than 12b. The anchors at the top are back. Nov 29, 2004
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Desperate. Apr 27, 2008
^^^ agreed. Things start easy enough with big holds, you bust a few moves, and just when the angle eases off and you think it's in the bag here comes the SLAP in the face slabby crux. Single-crystal crimping type nastiness. Blew a hole in my finger after about two goes. Jan 5, 2013