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Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 778 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is down low but the crack continues long enough to get some good climbing in. The left-hand finish is recommended as it is steeper and provides more interesting climbing.

This is a good wall to escape the crowds of the Feudal Wall, Billboard Buttress and Short Wall. Climbs here appear steep and intimidating but most are easier than they look, and this route is no exception. Two stars out of five.

Location

Begin more or less at the midpoint of the wall and left of a section of patina plates. Look for a curving crack, the most obvious on the wall, this is the route.

Protection

Take a selection of wires and cams to 3". You can rap (75') from anchors (3/8") atop a newer route just left of The Highwayman.

Photos

alex carey
  5.10c
alex carey  
  5.10c
I managed to build the anchor where the rope was able to swing into the crack. Be sure not to do what I did as the drag was only pullable with full body weight. Nov 21, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
Quality scare up the slanting flare. Fantastic exposure finishing up and left over roof via bomber jams and jugs. Dec 7, 2013
Murf  
Yes the walk off takes about 30 secs. Jan 31, 2003
If they're the same ones I was talking about on the rock page, some of them (or all) needed to go. It was like a bolt farm up there -- 3 or 4 bolts, clustered together in a completely haphazard formation, including one 1/4", two nasty spinners, and a big collection of ratty webbing.

That said, though, I've only been up on Corona once. If the bolts are gone, is there a decent walk-off? Jan 31, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I'm pretty sure the rap anchors Chris refers to in his description had been chopped as of 1/1/03 (the last time I climbed on the Dos Equis Formation). Jan 30, 2003
This is an awesome route - one of the best in Indian Cove for sure :) Jan 30, 2003