Miles Away From Ordinary
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09361, -116.16236 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 627 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Feb 1, 2021 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start up a slightly right-leaning crack that begins with rattly fingers or very tight hands, which ascends 2/3 of the way up to a small recess, where it does a subtle dogleg to turn slightly left-leaning rest of the way via big hands to the top. Sharp rock. Might feel harder for some hand sizes, or easier.
Giving this a non-generic name instead of adding another Unknown or Unnamed to the world. Not documented in any of the books. If there's already a name and info for this crack, happy to update to reflect.
Location and Descent
Located at the very top of the rock gully, approx 20 ft left and above the joint start of Secondary Inspection and Border Patrol. At the top, scramble through the gap to climber's right and foot traverse out across a horizontal crack (easy but exposed) to Border Patrol rap anchor. Secondary Inspection description also mentions possible to scramble off.



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