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Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 613 total, 5/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Flare Play is the next crack up the southwest face of Dos Equis Wall from Scare Way (5.10b). Reach it by tricky scrambling to an uncomfortable belay in some big boulders leaning against the wall.

There are two ways to climb this route, following either the left layback with a new bolt or right straight up thin crack where it splits. Both ways are 5.10c and challenging leads. In my opinion its very worthwhile to lead both.

For the left head up the thin crack and hand traverse left, make an insecure move up to a bolt and then lieback a rounded rail, a green or red Camelot might go in the flare above the bolt.

For the right crack instead of the hand traverse left, continue the steep thin crack with difficult to place but good pro. When it looks really really hard to continue, go right to a left slanting hand crack above.

Both ways finish on a nice 5.9 fist crack.

Pretty typical fun exciting Josh climbing.

Location

Descend via single rope rappel from the anchor above Highway Man / Tecate or scramble off southeast slabs.

Protection

A light rack of stoppers and cams. Have a 3.5" piece (#3 Camelot) for the upper crack. Pro above the bolt on the left way is achieved in a very flared and grainy 1-2" crack. The right way could use some tiny stoppers and small to med aliens. The fixed pin shown in Randy's guide was gone as of Feb' 07. Gear belay in a hidden crack with tiny cams or redirect to use bolt anchor near The Highwayman.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10c PG13
Richard Shore  
  5.10c PG13
I did the right option/variation (no bolt), and it felt at least a grade harder than the adjacent Scare Way. You'll want/need gear where your few jams are, so plan accordingly - use the holds first, then place in them. Dec 29, 2012