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Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Elevation: 3,357 ft
GPS: 34.094, -116.162 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,584 total · 23/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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The sheer, dark brown Dos Equis is one of the more spectacular-looking walls in Indian Cove, and sports a handful of relatively long, moderate/difficult routes with some nice exposure.

The South Buttress (5.7) is a nice climb along the edge of the face, and some nice-looking climbs on the face itself include Flare Play (5.10b), Scare Way (5.10b), Skid Row (aka Air Play) (5.10d), The Highwayman (5.11b) and Tecate (5.12b).

Corona Wall is a smaller wall located further up the gully from Dos Equis, which offers slightly easier and shorter climbs.

Single rope rap from a collection of not-particularly-well-placed bolts on a small ledge near the left side of Dos Equis.

Getting There

Dos Equis and Corona are located on the southwest face of the second to last major formation as you head out towards the west end of family camp area in Indian Cove (if you get to Moosedog Tower, you've gone too far). Approach to the South Buttress is direct and very close to the road; the rest of the climbs are located up the gully to the left of the formation.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Highwayman
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Highwayman
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
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M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Approach through family site 71. Jan 3, 2003
Does anyone (Chris / Randy) know what the excellent six bolt route is situated in between the Highwayman and Skid Row? It ends on the Skyline Finish variation (two pitons) to The Highwayman. Very difficult moves to the sixth bolt and short traverse to the Skyline Finish after the 6th bolt. Nov 28, 2003
C Miller   CA  
Not too sure of the name but it and the 4 bolt route to the left of Skid Row (5.10b) were done by Bob Gaines.

Originally the route in question had 6 bolts and 3 fixed pins to a two bolt anchor (I've heard the anchor is gone and it would not surprise me if any of the pins were missing). The climbing is sustained with a crux at the 4th and 6th bolts. The hardest moves were in the beat-out horizontal seam. Given 5.12a but proabably more like solid 5.12b. Nov 29, 2003
There is a piton after the third bolt but it is very close to the fourth bolt and unnecessary. The two pins at the top are rusty but seemingly solid. You could also get small TCU's or brass / small stoppers in for pro but at that point I was just interested in finishing the climb. I agree that the crux moves are solid 5.12. I thought the moves getting to the sixth bolt were comparable in difficulty to the moves after the sixth bolt. Nov 29, 2003
I forgot to mention that the anchors are gone. Whoever chopped them didn't remove the steel shafts or fill in the holes. Also, the horizontal seam above and right of the 6th bolt did appear to be chipped. I used an edge big enough for one and a half finger tips while reaching to the crack. Nov 29, 2003
The route is called Tecate 5.12b. The route was originally climbed with some aid (including hooks) and the "beat out seam" above the 6th bolt was nailed with a couple rurps & copperheads. The 4 bolt route on the left side of the face is called Chihuahua 5.10b. Jan 16, 2004
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
Thanks to the efforts of KP and the ASCA, all suspect bolts and anchors have been updated with new gear on both walls. The fixed pins towards the top were left in place. Hope you enjoy the new bomber pro and if you see KP be sure and thank him and support the ASCA. Their donations this summer have lead to the repair of many routes in Indian Cove. Aug 30, 2011
This cliff offers some of the best climbing in the campground at the 5.10 and up level, and I never see anybody climbing here. Dec 29, 2012

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