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> Corona/Dos Equis Wall
South Buttress
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.7 from 48
votes
Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall
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Border Patrol S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Miles Away From Ordinary T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09361, -116.16236 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,502 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Reynolds on May 3, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route climbs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face. It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself. The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.
The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin. About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches. Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!! Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.
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