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Routes in Corona/Dos Equis Wall

Chihuahua T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flare Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highwayman, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranger Is Watching Me, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scare Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secondary Inspection T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skid Row (aka Air Play) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
South Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tecate T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tres Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,227 total, 6/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on May 3, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climgs the buttress to the right of the Dos Equis Face. It's a nice featured face, steep in areas, and provides a significantly easier alternative to many of the climbs out on the face itself. The summit is nice, so give this climb a shot.

The crux here is right off the deck -- the first 20 feet or so are steep and bouldery, and pro is somewhat thin. About 70 feet up, you'll get to a spot where you may want to build an anchor to climb this thing in two pitches. Save yourself a bunch of time -- keep climbing!! Although you can't tell from here, there's only about 10 more feet of 5th class from this point.

Protection

Standard rack. Long slings for belay.
alex carey
  5.7
alex carey  
  5.7
Thought it a little spicy in the beginning. Got off the ground with 2 moves and realized I still couldn't get any good gear in for another move. I did it in 1 pitch and built a gear anchor at the top but having now read the comments I could have just walked 20 more feet to the bolts.

The climb breaks down into 4 parts. First 25 feet is the hardest most vertical part, then a bunch of class 4 scrambling, then a 20 foot off width, chimney thing, and finally a 10 foot itty bitty easily protected mantle/crux that once on top you can just walk up.

Nov 21, 2016
attila
 
attila  
 
Do this in two pitches. A 60 meter rope is barely enough otherwise, and the rope drag is hellacious. To corroborate another commenter, the first part off the ground is the crux. The anchors at the summit are fine to rap off the west face. Jan 24, 2010
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
 
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
 
This was a fun climb. We broke it into two pitches because we didn't know what to expect on the summit. This worked out well for us as it gave us both some lead fun. The obvious belay for the second pitch is at the base of 20 or so foot off width (not steep). If you do it in two pitches and want a quick anchor, walk up the summit slab to two south facing bolts (one of which is loose). The most difficult part of this moderate route is the first 15 feet off the deck, in my opinion. Apr 24, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
It's a full 200' (60m) to the top, but as Brian states, it eases up to low 5th class for the last bit. To descend, scramble down to climber's right. Jan 3, 2003