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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
Judas
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 88
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - East Face
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Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Church Bazaar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamic Panic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Judas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | John Wolfe, 1967, FFA: John Long et al, April 1972 |
| Page Views: | 3,434 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Approach the East Face of the Old Woman and look for a line of bolts on the south end of the south slab. After one bolt, two lines diverge, one straight up, and the other wandering to the right. Judas goes straight up past two bolts total, to reach a right leaning ramp, from which you can either move a few feet right and continue on Toe Jam (5.7, and recommended, but likely crowded) or continue up and onward to the rap anchors above Chongo Bolt Route and Bearded Cabbage (harder).
The crux of this route for me was right off of the ground, getting into position where I could comfortable place gear. I saw a team of climbers just before we were there standing on each other's shoulders to get established on the line. I guess that should have been a clue that the start was difficult. There was one additional friction move up higher that I found difficult. In the attached picture, the line is essentially where the climber is rapping off.
I did not find this climb as fun as many of its nearby neighbors.
The crux of this route for me was right off of the ground, getting into position where I could comfortable place gear. I saw a team of climbers just before we were there standing on each other's shoulders to get established on the line. I guess that should have been a clue that the start was difficult. There was one additional friction move up higher that I found difficult. In the attached picture, the line is essentially where the climber is rapping off.
I did not find this climb as fun as many of its nearby neighbors.
Protection
This climb protects with 2 reasonably good bolts and a few cams, from .75" to 3". The larger pro is for when you join the route Toe Jam, up top.
This climb is not rated "S" in the Vogel book, but I have rated PG. The route is protected well enough for the bulk of the climbing, but the first few moves are bouldery and could produce an ankle-twisting/breaking fall. I protected relatively soon on a TCU, but it was not a textbook placement, and a fall (even if it held) from below the first bolt still could have been bad.
This climb is not rated "S" in the Vogel book, but I have rated PG. The route is protected well enough for the bulk of the climbing, but the first few moves are bouldery and could produce an ankle-twisting/breaking fall. I protected relatively soon on a TCU, but it was not a textbook placement, and a fall (even if it held) from below the first bolt still could have been bad.
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