Type: Trad, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Phil Haney, John Mokri and Bob Dominick, November 1970
Page Views: 13,584 total · 58/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!


Take a #4 Camalot for the bottom of the crack. Heck, a #4.5 or #5 might even fit at the very bottom. Stack mostly big cams for this, from #2 on up.