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Routes in The Old Woman - East Face

Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Judas T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Phil Haney, John Mokri and Bob Dominick, November 1970
Page Views: 10,354 total · 52/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!


Take a #4 Camalot for the bottom of the crack. Heck, a #4.5 or #5 might even fit at the very bottom. Stack mostly big cams for this, from #2 on up.
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Back when I started climbing at JTree (25 years ago!) this route was considered a direct finish to the route "Deviate". Deviate used to be rated 5.9 back then, but I think now it is a bit harder, which is why it is now seldom used as the approach to this route. Jun 27, 2002
tis is an amazing fun route, dont forget to yell geranimo when your feet cut loose. Sep 25, 2002
Steelmnky - I think I remember the same guy...short shorts, long hair. He seemed to have a regimen of soloing the in the morning...funny. He'd go up Dogleg or Double-Cross, then climb over to this roof. Then he'd traipse around to the other HV moderates, making sure to attract as much attention as possible.

Thanks for brining back those memories from the early 90's! Nov 21, 2002
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Notable for it's airy position and little else. Were this on the ground it wouldn't be as memorable. Two stars out of five. Feb 1, 2005
Gary Kleiger
Gary Kleiger  

I respectfully disagree. If this route were on the ground, it would be a boulder problem, and a popular one at that. Feb 2, 2005
mmurduff Mic
mmurduff Mic  
Incredibly fun, terribly short. We approached from the anchors of Double Cross: walked up a ramp to a crack went up to the summit and then dropped in next to Geronimo.Belay at two bolts (nice!) Medium to large gear for the leader and enjoy! When you pull the lip, yell: GERONIMO Oct 30, 2005
This was fun because we hit it after climbing Deviate (must climb and best approach for Geronimo IMO. I certainly wouldn't go really out of your way to do it unless you taking pics or something. Too short for the trouble alone. Apr 13, 2014
Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
My understanding is that only by doing the bat-hang have you earned the right to yell the name of one of the great Apache warriors, though perhaps we oughta change it to "Goyahkla!" Feb 2, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
Everything about this climb is rad!! Loved it!

Head up to this rig at the end of the day when everyone's back at camp cooking dinner.

This will earn you maximum social bump in Hidden Valley, especially if you give a good war cry after pulling the lip Feb 28, 2018

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