Avg: 3 from 288 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||John Long and Richard Harrison, December 1973|
|Page Views:||16,082 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 13, 2001|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Approach as for ToeJam or Judas and look up and to the right. You will see a upward and left-rising "near-horizontal flake" coming into from the far right side of the East Face slab of the Old Woman. Above this feature there is a single bolt in the relatively short and blank section of rock between the horizontal and a vertical jam crack. Only the vertical handcrack system is visible in the attached photo.
To climb this route, scramble up and to the right onto a group of boulders, as for Spider Line. This is approximately half way between Geranimo and Toe Jam. Traverse out left to reach the good horizontal/flake, and continue on that flake, placing a cam in it if you so desire. The pro is not textbook, but the climbing here is only 5.8. (but pumpy if you hang out much) Climb to the left hand end of the horizontal and clip a good bolt. This will be your pro for the crux and it seems to be quite trust-worthy. Make a big 5.10c move into the handcrack to the left. This can be done one of a few ways- dyno into a handjam, or pull a balancy lay-back type move. Both felt somewhat difficult. After getting a good jam (better for wide hands), make one more move to establish a good position from which to place gear. From there go up the crack a way (5.8) and when it peters out, move over just a few feet left to a second crack. Climb this to a set of rap anchors on top (Shared with Chongo Bolt Route).
Take a rack with a set of cams from meduim TCU's (1") to large-hands (3") plus a few nuts along.