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Routes in The Old Woman - East Face

Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Judas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad
FA: John Svenson and George Karsh, 1968; FFA: Don O'Kelley, 1969
Page Views: 1,517 total · 8/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Approach as for Toe Jam.

Start as for Toe Jam, but two-thirds of the way up the route where Toe Jam cuts straight up, instead continue right along tricky diagonal crack (crux) to 2-bolt anchor/rap (same as rappel anchor for Toe Jam).


Standard rack to 3".


Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
For 17 years I've never seen anyone on this route, so when fishkiller said he wanted to lead it; I was game. As far back as the "purple book", this has been a 2-pitch climb that starts just right of the true Toe Jam start. (Same start everyone uses for Toe Jam.) It traverses across the east side of the Old Woman in full view of the Hidden Valley campsites - the center of Josh climbing.

Current guides show the first belay station near the top of Toe Jam, but it's better to go to the top of Spiderline so you can protect the leader on the much tougher second pitch.

On the first pitch, have a couple medium cams for the "no hands" hand traverse. Jun 18, 2009

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