Type: Trad
FA: John Svenson and George Karsh, 1968; FFA: Don O'Kelley, 1969
Page Views: 1,563 total · 8/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Approach as for Toe Jam.

Start as for Toe Jam, but two-thirds of the way up the route where Toe Jam cuts straight up, instead continue right along tricky diagonal crack (crux) to 2-bolt anchor/rap (same as rappel anchor for Toe Jam).

Protection

Standard rack to 3".

Photos

Donno
Newport Beach
5.9
Donno   Newport Beach
5.9
For 17 years I've never seen anyone on this route, so when fishkiller said he wanted to lead it; I was game. As far back as the "purple book", this has been a 2-pitch climb that starts just right of the true Toe Jam start. (Same start everyone uses for Toe Jam.) It traverses across the east side of the Old Woman in full view of the Hidden Valley campsites - the center of Josh climbing.

Current guides show the first belay station near the top of Toe Jam, but it's better to go to the top of Spiderline so you can protect the leader on the much tougher second pitch.

On the first pitch, have a couple medium cams for the "no hands" hand traverse. Jun 18, 2009