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Routes in The Old Woman - East Face

Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Judas T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, November 1952
Page Views: 15,146 total, 80/month
Shared By: M. Morley on May 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 50' west to the base of the route.

Jam up hand crack for 10', then angle diagonally up and right. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical finger crack (crux) to top.

Belay on gear, NOT the bolted anchor to the right.

Descent: Single rope rappel from 2-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.

Safety Note: I have witnessed multiple parties attempting to toprope the route off of the rap anchors which lie 20' to the right of the route. Really bad idea, as a fall would result in a phenomenal swing to the right.

Protection

Light rack.
Hobo Greg
My Van
Hobo Greg   My Van
Led this just to get the booty someone had left on the chains over a weekend, but then he showed up and didn't even thank me for giving em back. He was "working" spiderline and had his setup on the chains for two whole days! Aug 28, 2017
No way this is 5.7. 5.6d maybe... Apr 21, 2015
very cool route. super classic and must do.

and please do not use the rap chains as the anchor - i've seen some disasters and tired of telling new leaders to make their own station from the perfectly protected crack at the top - humbly speaking.

Apr 9, 2015
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.7
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Nothing special, but makes for a great first/last climb of the day...not to mention it was literally 20ft from our tent....The entire climb protects well and is straight-forward, especially by jtree standards... Mar 19, 2014
Fun easy warm up. Good intro to take first timers on. Dec 9, 2013
Climbed it today. Fun moves at the top.


youtube.com/watch?feature=p…

The beginning part of the video is not the walk to the climb. Nov 19, 2013
Alex Doria
San Diego
 
Alex Doria   San Diego
 
Great morning climb, perfect sun and tons of pro Aug 25, 2013
henrysunset  
 
First climb of the day. Excellent route follows nice flake/cracks with some great laybacks. The start is a bit awkward but manageable. I really liked the laybacks following the long flake to the right, this part was my highlight of the day. Mar 29, 2013
Climb To Safety
california
  5.6
Climb To Safety   california
  5.6
A good warmup to do before or after breakfast, especially if camping in hidden valley. Simple, fun traverse, gets interesting at the top. 5.6. Feb 15, 2013
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
 
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
 
Lead this today if your new to the game like me this route is pretty straightforward in placing Cams. Make sure though if your a beginner you are good at stoppers I found hard to place(although I'm a new trad leader) but the cams were really easy to place. Anchor up top I found my tri-cams worked perfect... Feb 20, 2012
Vitaliy
  5.7
Vitaliy  
  5.7
Lower section (undercling) has a stuck stopper, huge footholds everywhere. One move before last (at the top) will get your attention if you are not used to trusting your feet (slippery 5.7). Don't get stuck in the crack on that section -- lots of foot/hand holds to be found to the left. Sep 26, 2011
Fun route!! I thought that stoppers did the trick rather nicely on the upper section. Aug 29, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
One of the most enjoyable climbs, regardless of grade, in JTree. Great crack, takes pro very well. Sep 9, 2010
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7+
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7+
While a fun route, I don't support the other opinions of this being an excellent lead for a new beginner. While I felt the lower section protected extremely well, I felt the vertical crack required some good technique and a keen sense of placing gear. Upper gear good, but not great. Wonderful to have had the chance to lead this route today without the hoards of lookie-loos... late-June in Josh! Jun 19, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.6
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.6
Easy route with a 1 move crux. Good for breaking into the grade. Make sure to belay off gear above the climb(as in the beta above) and not the rap chains or you'll set you second up for a nasty pendulum that the entire campground can see. Oct 26, 2009
Hands down one of the best climbs for beginning leaders. Protection is fairly decent, yet small. Good crack for practicing stopper placements. Climb is sort of a mix of slab and crack climbing. The last bit of the climb is the crux. You hit a vertical crack with limited protection options. I think I got a small cam in there somewhere at the start. Then there is a couple of slabby moves to the top.

The top is where the climb is really awesome for beginner trad climbers. It has everything you could want for setting up an awesome anchor off gear. Perfect horizontal crack that will take some small to medium sized cams, and bomber stopper placements. If you really want the extra back up, throw some slings around the juggy type erosional features just above the crack.

Rap off the rings on the bolts to the climbers right, or easier and somewhat safe, drop the rope into the two gated hooks. May 22, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Area classic for the grade! Apr 8, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Pretty fun 5.7. Sep 29, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.7+
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.7+
I remember leading this route many years ago, and found the (my) nut placements to be a bit wanting on the top crack, but since it was well below my leading ability, I paid little attention to it. Probably best for a leader at the 5.9 grade to feel comfortable about this climb. Jun 4, 2006
mmurduff Mic
  5.7
mmurduff Mic  
  5.7
Great gear up the end where I almost always place a small (pink) tri-cam before ending the climb. A must do! Oct 30, 2005
The route has great gear up until the vertical crack section at the top. A small cam (yellow alien worked for me) can be placed midway through the crack, and its probably the best gear in this section, IMO. A few nut options exist, but I wouldn't say they're the best. However, even if you were to fall here, all the awesome gear below the vertical crack will keep you safe. Dec 22, 2004
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7
Maybe one move of 5.7 stepping out of the crack on to the little slab. A #.75 cam protects the exit from the crack quite well. All in all, a friendly climb that will leave a smile on your face. May 10, 2004
Randy
  5.7
Randy  
  5.7
FA: Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, 11/52. Mar 10, 2004
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
I love this climb. There is absolutely no reason to have an accident on this one - there is great gear every 2 feet if you want it. This would be an excellent beginner lead. Nov 4, 2002