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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
Toe Jam
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.7 from 1,186
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - East Face
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Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buttered Croissant T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Church Bazaar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamic Panic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Judas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01667, -116.16367 |
| FA: | Jerry Gallwas, George Scheiff & Gary Hemming, November 1952 |
| Page Views: | 47,829 total · 165/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on May 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
From the bulletin board at Hidden Valley Campground, turn around and walk approximately 100 feet west then scramble up through some boulders to the base of the route.
Jam up hand crack for about 10 feet, then angle diagonally up and right along large flakes. About two-thirds of the way up the route, step left and continue up vertical, pin scarred finger crack (crux) to top.
Belay from gear in a horizontal crack directly above the finish, NOT from the bolted anchor over to the right.
Descent: Single rope rappel from two-bolt anchor 20' right of the top of the climb.
Photos
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