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Routes in The Old Woman - East Face

Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Judas T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bart Groendyke & Todd Alston, 1989
Page Views: 778 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up Judas, climbing to the first bolt on that route and then break out right in an improbable right-arcing line past three bolts to finish at the anchors for Spider Line. The crux is classic Josh face and involves trusting your feet to the delicate smears while looking at a swinging fall. One star (maybe) out of five, but only for the sheer novelty of the climb, not the actual quality.

This climb has also been called the Chongo Bolt Route (trying to pin the FA on them no doubt) and the Dummy's Triangle by those unaware of the actual name.

Location

You'll find this strange route just right of Judas.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2"

Photos

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A true test of your shoe rubber. I TR'd this thing over the weekend and fell multiple times around the 2nd bolt of the traverse. There is absolutely nothing for your hands and you have to just hope to find a spot of rock for your feet where there's no loose potato chip crumb flakes to blow your grip. I wonder if you took a bristle brush to this thing if it might get a little more dependent on position than on the luck of tiny flakes of crunchy rock. Once you reach the sidepulls and flakes at the end of the traverse, the climbing eases significantly. May 6, 2007