Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: (to ledge) Dick Webster, April 1969, (complete route) Dick James & John Wolfe, May 1969
Page Views: 921 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Clip a low first bolt, crank over a short overhang (harder for shorties), then work your way right and up past one more bolt (crux) on some of the greasiest, most slippery smears found in the campground. Easier terrain and and a few pieces of gear lead to a scrunchy low angle chimney and the bolted belay. Rap from here or use long slings and link it up with the fun roof of Geronimo above.

Not particulary memorable except for the section of seemingly frictionless smears. 1 star out of 5.

Location

Just right of Spider Line, and directly below Geronimo roof.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8's), light rack of mostly small pieces, 2 bolt rap anchor. A few larger cams and long slings if linking into Geronimo 5.7.

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George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
This was the first climb I ever led. A very poor choice! I had to aid past the crux bolt. Nov 12, 2012
I can't believe how fun this climb turned out to be. Must do for in camp fun. Gets one star, but I say it should get two. One for being super fun and one for being right in camp. Apr 13, 2014
Hard to believe this climb was rated F8 back in the day! Dec 20, 2015
A key hold broke off a long time ago.

At one time it was the standard way to access Geronimo. Dec 20, 2015