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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Old Woman
> Old Woman - E Face
Deviate
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.9 from 31
votes
Routes in The Old Woman - East Face
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Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Buttered Croissant T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Church Bazaar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dynamic Panic T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Judas T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01667, -116.16367 |
| FA: | (to ledge) Dick Webster, April 1969, (complete route) Dick James & John Wolfe, May 1969 |
| Page Views: | 2,203 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Apr 16, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Clip a low first bolt, crank over a short overhang (harder for shorties), then work your way right and up past one more bolt (crux) on some of the greasiest, most slippery smears found in the campground. Easier terrain and and a few pieces of gear lead to a scrunchy low angle chimney and the bolted belay. Rap from here or use long slings and link it up with the fun roof of Geronimo above.
Not particulary memorable except for the section of seemingly frictionless smears. 1 star out of 5.
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