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Routes in The Old Woman - East Face

Bearded Cabbage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buttered Croissant T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Geronimo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hinterstoisser Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Judas T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spider Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tabby Litter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toe Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Woody Stark & Dick Webster 1967, FFA (TR): John Bachar 1/78, FL: John Yablonski 2/78 (solo), FL: Rick McGregor, Spring 1979 (placing gear)
Page Views: 9,901 total, 53/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

As soon as you step off the ground the fun starts on this one. The crux comes in the first 15', reaching to get established in the corner proper after which it's steep, fun jamming/laybacking to the top where a quick step left gains a ledge with bolted anchors.

Yet another classic crack climb of the Hidden Valley Area - 4 stars out of five.

Location

Located on the left side of the Old Woman's East Face and easily identified as a doubly overhanging right-facing corner system.

Protection

A selection of wires and cams to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap (3/8" bolts)
hanshan
Canada Mofuga
hanshan   Canada Mofuga
Oh yeah, this one! I fell off the start, pulled a nut and landed on my belayer back in 2005. I couldn't wear the shirt I had on around camp because everyone saw me take that fall and would comment on it. In 2011 my partner rolled out of town but I really wanted my revenge on this climb before leaving so I asked a guy in camp (Thomas?)for a belay. Finally sent, and then Thomas-who'd never climbed it before, tr'd it easily in his approach shoes. Apr 17, 2017
Hairball
Revelstoke, BC
 
Hairball   Revelstoke, BC
 
Not super tuned up when I gave this a second go in October 2016 (last time was 1992), but can't use that excuse... For me, this felt way harder than the grade. Seems like an all time classic Hidden Valley sandbag. Its the first thin part that really whooped my ass. Gear was great throughout. Nov 2, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.11c
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.11c
All time account of Yabo's Spiderline free solo...

Bachar sez:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Mar 1, 2016
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
Alex leading it March 27, 2015... she did three more laps on it after this... I got the first ten feet and was pooped, gotta get back on this a few more times:


youtube.com/watch?v=jmCK68U… Mar 30, 2015
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
 
Mike Fogarty   La Quinta, CA
 
Classic top rope, was a test piece always for the up and comer. Mar 5, 2012
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.11d
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.11d
Hard for the grade and Awkward. Don't think its worth all the hype surrounding it... Oct 14, 2009
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Although John Yablonksi is credited with the first lead of this route (by soloing it) the first actual lead placing gear is credited to Rick McGregor, a visiting New Zealander, in the Spring of 1979. Jan 17, 2009
Ian
Boulder, CO
5.11d
Ian   Boulder, CO
5.11d
I thought the gear was pretty bomber on this route with a hand-size cam and a good finger piece protecting the cruxy start. It is definitely a safe, technical route that is worth doing. Jan 4, 2009
Drewsky  
I've always enjoyed this climb, even the first time when it rejected me soundly, but allow me to state the obvious: make sure the gear at the start is placed correctly. I witnessed the aftermath (helicopter rescue) of someone who had pulled a piece down low and decked in '06. Given the traversing nature of the climb, he landed on his head and, helmet notwithstanding, died of his injuries. The gear is good on this climb, but be aware that you are never far from the ground. Nov 9, 2008
Exceptionally hard for the grade. Miles harder than other 11c routes in the Monument/Park. Mar 31, 2008
Randy
  5.11c/d
Randy  
  5.11c/d
FFA (TR) John Bachar, 1/78; First Lead/Solo, John Yablonski, 2/78. Not sure who actually did the first "gear" lead. Nov 1, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11d
Upon first looking at Spider Line, I was aprehensive about the pro because the crack looked so thin. I decided to get on it to just "have a look". To my surprise, the route protected perfectly with small stoppers down low and medium cams up high. I would call Spider Line a very leadable, well-protected route. The moves are stellar too. Jan 29, 2004