Most Unique Pitches in the Front Range?
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Not asking for the best pitches, though obviously extra points for quality. What are the most unique pitches of climbing in the front range? The type of stuff that's basically 1 of 1 in the region, state, country, or beyond. Points awarded for unique boulders, or unique sequences even if the pitch itself as a whole might be relatively regular. I don't have a ton of mileage at the grade to know if it's truly unique, but I found the entire crux of Price for Fire, from leaving the crack to sticking the jug slot, to be super unique. Also Super Phun Thyme, the bat hang boulder at The Dark Side |
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I like Can You Spare A Square? That undercling/roof/traverse section is funky and super fun! |
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Supersqueeze on the Dome is pretty unique. |
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Interpreting this as 3D "I can't believe that worked" style climbing... EL100 -- The first 30 feet go up a tree. Bacon & Ergs -- Offwidth with a hidden feature just when you need it. Alice in Bucketland -- goofy roof pulls to slightly runout on jugs with solid unique rock features C'est La Vie crux -- Delicate contortion Drumstick Direct -- Jambs, roof pull, el matador style stem box Tagger Crux -- Funky. Underflinger -- Not listed on mtn project. but overhung liebacking with a sweet kneebar. Turnkorner crux Crack of fear? Guenese -- tricky with a wild roof pull for the grade interstellar overdrive -- Funky insecure slot. Multiple cruxes. Unknown by burly man (north quarry) -- weird stemming Turf spreader Not front range bonus spray: The crux pitch of Time Warp in Red Rocks is the most unique layback to offwidth to stem pitch I've done. |
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I’ll bite! Things that have left indelible impressions on me, either watching or doing: The Beak at Castlewood, a 5.11 move in every style The all out crux boulder on Starlight. In the flatties: The sustained 5.12 walking section on The Human Experiment, west overhang’s puckery traverse next to the insane flying toehook crux on Maiden Time; the 60 foot long “tufa” on the Walrus The Inside Passage is peak flatiron shenanigans The downwards handjam roof on Uncle Sam’s Jam at Sunshine Wall, although the Abattoir roof looks better! Flying Beast and Archangel in Bocan I think New Horizons and Old Yellar are pretty wild just for even existing on granite in Chossorado The last pitch of Kingfisher and the Sarchasm Arete in the park, maybe the 360 chimney crux of Sykes too but the choss getting there really blows. |
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How about that 3rd pitch of The Wind Ridge on Wind Tower (Eldo)... pretty hard and weird and awkward for the grade and I think most people walk off at the top of pitch 2 just to avoid it. Not too far back, I think there was a tragic accident here, unfortunately. Or, how about the 2nd pitch of The Owl on The Dome in Boulder Canyon--same as the third pitch of Cozyhang. Again, pretty hard for the grade. The first time up it is clearly 5.10 and the grade comes down with each successive ascent until, after about 3-4 times, it eventually acquires its current Layton Kor grade of 5.7+ (head jam useful). |
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"The Same Reality" at the Spires on the Aircraft Carrier boulder is unique in a lot of ways. It's essentially a route on a giant boulder that ends on a separate boulder. Also might be the most sustained steep crack climb in the front range. Also in the S. Platte, "Defying Gravity" and "Te Cuelgas Guey" are both incredibly unique boulders in their movement style. Not really attainable for 99% of climber tho. |
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I always thought Slap Happy was pretty unique. Machine gun funk has some bizarre movement, (horizontal Slap happy) The two routes in the creekside belay pod are pretty unique for their approach shenanigans. |
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Buckets, 5.0 X : A 300ft slab covered with perfect naturally carved 3x3" magically flat footholds. Old Eyeful, 5.6 : Looks like 12b from below. Please, DO NOT read any description of this route before you do it. TM Chimney, 5.7 : Full 50m huge chimney without seeing the sky. Depending on time of day, headlamp may be required. Breakfast in Bed, 5.8 : 30ft slightly overhanging corner/arete on huge jugs. The Convict, 5.8 : The rock behind you is as important as the one in front of you. With a required dyno at the top. Long John, 1st pitch, 5.7 R : A downward traverse that you walk backwards with almost nothing for your fingers. A #2 RP half a mile below your feet won't keep you off a ledge. Labyrinth, 5.9 : A triangular squeeze chimney. Infant Son #1, 5.9 : Tight belly crawl. Cave Route, 10+ (marginally Front Range) : The moves are nothing to write about, but the setting is rather unique in a place where the sun has not been shining for a couple of million years. |
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The roof on Syke’s Sickle on the Spearhead is very unique. Weird flared pinches to stemming a giant roof to fist jams, throwing for a jug, and cutting feet to a heel hook. So bizarre. P2 on Magic in the Middle on Zowie has this neat section where you climb an arete and then step out into a dihedral that just hangs in space with a couple hundred feet below you. I know this was about Colorado.. but last summer I climbed up a waterfall in Canada and the 9th pitch or so was a horizontal cave pitch for 100m with some very small constrictions. That’s probably the most unique thing I’ve climbed.. anywhere. |
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Cave Exit on The Book in Lumpy. Silly three-dimensional weirdness to finish some classic routes on an awesome formation. The effort I put in never feels commensurate with the grade and it has a very unique feel to it. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/v/124660223 shameless self-spray, I have only been climbing outdoors for five years but this is probably the most unique route I will have done for a long time. |
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The final pitch of the Kingfisher (The Spearhead, RMNP) is really wild. A very thin flake/arete with 700’ of exposure below your feet. |
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The Brennivin roof pitch in Clear Creek is up there somewhere. The trad/mixed fixed mank style along with the movement stands out to me. Not to mention the tyrol shenanigans to approach any of those creekside routes. There's a route in the Platte, lala land (is this right slim?), called Susie Cream Cheese which is a long full rope length bolted chimney. |
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Velvet Elvis, Center Route (Cynical Pinnacle), Naked Edge, Birds of Fire (RMNP), Gobs of Blobs, Smear of Fear, Silk Road, Mixed Emotions. |
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If you’re willing to make the extra few minutes of a drive, the Edge of Time, EOT for short, also what the locals call it, is an absolutely extravagant route that will have you on the edge of your shoes, if you will. The unique part about it is the opportunity to bivy at the piton ledge and then wait for conditions to come in over the course of a few days to ring the chains on the summit. The summit presents the most magical views in all directions, and the front range light pollution is worth writing home about. |
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Picture this: You drove up the hill to Estes Park. You're racking up in the Lily Lake TH parking lot, side-eyeing all the gumbies and wondering what they're up to. Suddenly you catch the brief whisper of "The Edge." Someone else is going for it. Luckily, you're racked up with a double set of cams, tricams, a stray hex, and 3 quick draws. You and your partner blast out of the parking lot, only to get horrendously lost on the approach. The crag goblins of Jurassic Park established so many social trails that you spend more than an hour figuring out the best way to walk uphill. Is this a test to gain entry to The Edge? It is. You need to earn it. You finally arrive and find immediate disappointment. A party of 5 from Oklahoma alpine-started the approach and are only on their first TR lap, after having a mild epic scrambling in from the top because nobody wanted to lead the route. Thankfully however, you are only second in line - as the parties behind you get equally lost on social trails that simply lead to oblivion. Guides and summer camp kids have taken over Jurassic Park. There's a weird zip-line thing above you for some reason. Kids are screaming across the crag, and there's a weird amount of praying. It doesn't matter, because the Oklahoma party has finally finished their 5 TR laps after hours of flailing and saying "This is 5.9?" You're still racked up, and your sweat has dried. You launch immediately into the 5.9+++ crux of the route, fall, pull back on, fall again, contemplate, say "on me" then "ahh take," and then eventually you just use the tree to get past the crux, shake uncontrollably before the 2nd bolt, but still manage to clip it. Deck potential gone. You're above the tree. Nothing left but you and the sweet stone ahead. You proceed on surprisingly heady and not that much fun climbing to the chains, then hang the TR directly on the fixed hardware because you didn't bring anchor material. You placed no cams, tried to place a tricam and failed, and skipped the last bolt because you had summit fever. You say "take" one more time, and bask in the sights around. Estes valley behind you, Long's Peak and the Diamond in front of you. The summer camp kids are still screaming at each other, but it doesn't matter. You got to the top of the Edge of Time. If that isn't the most unique single-pitch experience you can get in Colorado, I don't know what is. |
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[Serious answer] A few face climbing routes:
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Brad Boerswrote: They don't call it "The Diamond" of Colorado for nothing. Maybe one day I'll be ready to give it an attempt. Really inspiring trip report, this is the kind of stuff that gets my fired up and coming back to the site. Even after encountering so many trolls who make a mockery of our sport which should really be treated with the utmost seriousness at all times. a bucket list tick for sure and hope you've been basking in that glory since. Did you give it a good "CUMBREEE!" at the summit? Proud one. |
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I've climbed a lot of cool and unique pitches in the front range, but there's only one that can be described with superlatives such as "most". Imagine this - you've spent years eyeing the line, looking up beta, watching go-pro videos, looking at Instagram photos, and generally doing your research for a ground up flash attempt. You've rehearsed the approach, dialed in the most efficient way to hike up, slimmed down your rack to a 22.5 meter rope, 3 quickdraws (ultralight) and triples to 5 with 2 sets of offsets, 10 beaks and a full set of tricams. You've spent agonizing hours in the gym, lapping V-easy's until your loose fitting tarantulaces are sliding around with sweat, doing weighted eliptical sets, and getting swole in the weight room. You've completed your belay certification class, your gym to crag class, your top roping 101 class, AND your "learn to lead with a gri gri" class. You watched free solo, and signed up for Jordan Cannon's master class. You've come a long way since you moved to Boulder just 2 months ago. Let's just say that when you finally clip that first bolt, legs quivering from the weight of your triple rack, offsets, beaks, and tricams - there's really no comparable feeling. You've truly earned your place among the legends. After taking at the first bolt - you use your ultralight stick clip to clip the next bolt, and then boink up. Rinse, repeat. Before you know it - you're at the anchor basking in the glory of the beautiful Colorado sun, rolling up the sleeves on your sun hoody to get a little extra vitamin D. Before descending to the valley floor, you are sure to have your friend's friend grab a sick photo of you in the prime of your life, overjoyed with a sense of accomplishment, literally on a higher level than the noobs on the ground. Unique? You better believe it. There’s a reason people call it the Naked Edge of Colorado. |





