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Routes in Amoeboid

Buckets T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Southeast Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,795 total, 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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41 Opinions

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This "F3" east face route is about 300 feet long and follows the obvious water groove. The water groove ends in a gash in the summit. The best climbing is found on the face to the left or the right of the water groove due to a healthy crop of moss in the groove. If climbed with a rope, the only protection is in the buckets that give this route its name. (tricams...) This route is a great scrambling finish to the Royal Arch trail when combined with the Anomaly flatiron. Descent: Walk off to the south.

Protection

Light SR, including extra tricams.
mtnrunner2
  4th
mtnrunner2  
  4th
For those who are looking to do easy climbs, I rated this 4th Class, and if you can do Freeway, you can do this no problem. Just follow the buckets; they never quit, all the way up, and the exit between the two summits is not difficult at all.

I thought it was fun, one of those climbs where the holds keep showing up at the right moment, and I'm pretty sure I was smiling :)

I do find it funny that every description (even in books) refers to "the" water groove when there are actually at least five water grooves on this slab. I climbed to the right or left of the groove in this photo: mountainproject.com/v/11052…. Note that the photo is tilted to the right, which makes the route seem steeper than it actually is. Jun 24, 2017
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.0
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.0
I stayed in the water groove until exiting left towards the top. It is slick at the bottom of the climb (with relatively few surrounding buckets) but decent hold otherwise. In the middle, it remained slick and the obvious hand holds went away; at that point, I would say I was climbing 5.2-3 friction. At the top, it became licheny, but the hold returned.

Overall, this solo strikes me as unique compared to all other Flatiron scrambles. The water groove and buckets are enjoyable features. Jun 14, 2008
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
 
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
 
I cranked up this one after climbing the 'Stairway to Heaven.' However, after seeing the endless number of monster foot holds, I chose not to put on my dry climbing shoes, but rather climb in my muddy, wet running shoes. The 'Buckets' area was actually really fun! Higher up however, the buckets dissapeared and I found myself on a considerably steeper, lichen-covered face in wet shoes. I got pretty sketched out downclimbing that! Jun 17, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.0
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.0
This route is really one of the best obscure Flatirons I have ever done. One would not think that so many bucket-like holds could be possible, but there they are. I imagine they retain rain water for days.... As the backets run out and the route 'ends', you can step right to the north summit and do a few 5.6 moves to gain more good stone and some additional climbing. When you reach the summit, step off right and to a second formation which can be followed to its respective summit, near the base of the Hourglass. May 28, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is actually quite a nice route. If the face was 90 degrees in angle rather than about 50, it would be bristling with bolts and 3 star sport routes. But perhaps it is better left as a quiet slab in the woods.

The end of this route is not the summit of the Amoeboid; in fact the Amoeboid does not have an obvious summit. But one can continue wandering over or around obstacles in the upper ridge to explore several of the upper summits. Above this are two enormous boulders. May 9, 2002