Climbing Near Altadena, California

MUST DISPLAY A FOREST ADVENTURE PASS HEREMillard Falls is an aid climbing practice location in either an awesome setting (prior to 10 am on weekdays) or a terrible setting (any other time). The climbs ascend the solid, very water polished granite right next to Millard Falls. Since this area is only a few minutes from LA and has a 75' waterfall it can get absolutely packed with families, rednecks, rangers, and the general LA populace. The climbs are bolt ladders that are either bomber or really scary. Oh, your rope will get wet. Unless the falls have dried up, it'll fall right into a pool after you rap off the routes. These routes might even go free! Post up any information or beta about that if you have it.There are two good routes worth doing and at least one scary one. The Left Ladder is easiest and straightforward. All you need is draws and aiders/stirrups.The Center Ladder (just right of the left one) is good, but you'll need to stick clip the first bolt. There is a short section of 5.8ish after the 3rd bolt or you'll need a stick clip. This thing has to go free. If it wasn't for the moves getting to the first bolt, it looks 5.10. The first couple of moves off the ground look really hard. All bolts are good on this one.The Right Ladder is hard on very poor bolts and ends at a poor 2 bolt anchor. Pro is 5-7 rivet hangers, hooks, Doubloons, and a cheat stick?I'd really recommend going early morning on a weekday and you'll have the place to yourself. On the weekend or anytime after mid morning, well.... just be ready for half of LA to be standing around next to you. I won't say you can't go during these times since there are no rules in place, but just think about how a family hiking to see a waterfall will feel about you playing around right next to it. That being said, it's not really a wilderness experience on the weekend anyway. There are also some houses you pass on the way in up on the creekside. Stay on the trail and out of their yards.Camping: There is a campground here, but not very secluded. It's sort of right next to the main trail / road about 200 yards from the parking lot. It has picnic tables and fire rings.Season: Year round. Right after rain, the falls will really be going and while the routes are not under it, you'll get a decent amount of spray.Dogs: Are allowed if kept on leash. I was told that the rangers WILL ticket you $300 if they see Fido off the leash or you don't pick up the poo!NOTICE: If anyone hassles you about climbing, please cite Howard Okamoto, the USFS Recreation Officer for Angeles NF, River District, which includes Millard Falls. Apparently the campground host has taken it upon himself to be rude to climbers, but cannot technically ticket anyone since it's not illegal to climb in the Angeles National Forest. He can cite you if you threaten him or place new bolts. Just be polite and go about your business.http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=633588&msg=932879#msg932879Howard S. OkamotoRecreation OfficerR5, Angeles NF, Los Angeles River RD12371 North Little Tujunga Canyon RoadSan Fernando, CA 91342818-899-1900 ext 229hokamoto@fs.fed.us From Highway 210: Exit Lake Ave in Pasadena and follow it north all the way to the end (3.5 miles) and follow it as it curves left into Alta Loma. Follow Alta Loma to Chaney Trail (1 mile). Follow the circuitous Chaney Trail road north staying left until you reach the parking area for Millard Falls (1.6 miles, A.K.A. NF-2N65). Follow the Brown Mountain Truck Trail northeast back past the campground and follow the trail that hugs the creek. You'll dead end at the falls (about a 15-20 minute hike). You really can't get lost from the parking lot, just follow the signs.

There are three boulders in this area. There might be some more further up stream, but I’ve just found three so far. Two of the boulders are pretty close to each other and the other is down a different stream. The boulders are granite and are pretty featured. Some holds are polished smooth, but most are pretty rough. The boulders are nothing special, but worthwhile if you live nearby and want to take a hike after work and get a few short laps in. The closest city is Altadena. From the 210 near La Canada and Pasadena exit Arroyo Blvd/Windsor Ave, head north towards the mountains. Go about one mile and park on the left in the small lot just before the gate and where the road turns right. (Right by JPL). This is a popular parking lot for hikers and mountain bikers and you do not need an Adventure Pass.For the Bridge Boulder and Wall Boulder:From the parking lot after about a mile of walking the asphalt turns to dirt and splits into a Y near some buildings. Stay to the left. Hike another 1/4 mile to the wall boulder, on the right or hike another 1/4 mile past that and cross over the second bridge and go down to the boulder about 10 feet on the left. (Edit 9/2018: As you are crossing the bridge, look down left and you'll see it, make a hard left down at the end of the bridge) For the Canyon Crest Boulder (You can approach this 2 ways):From the JPL parking lot walk 3/4 of a mile, then turn right up the first stream. Then hike about another 1/2 mile, crossing the stream several times and then you’ll see the boulder on the left side.Or the lazy way, exit the 210 at Windsor. Turn right on Woodbury, left up Lincoln, then turn left on Canyon Crest. Go about 1/2 a mile and park in a small turn out on the left or right. Then walk down into the canyon and downstream and you’ll see the boulder.

Short boulder, with a some obvious V0's but you can work out some solid V2 routes avoiding jugs. Located on the right hand side of Canyon Crest Drive, no more then 200 yards past the Stream Boulder.