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Routes in The Alcove

Carnivore S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Nino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Geezer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gravity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Guillotine, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pride S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Right Stuff, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Spam S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Whippersnapper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Louie Anderson (1997)
Page Views: 6,107 total, 63/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Starts up the left facing corner, clipping the bolts on the left wall. Once you reach the flake follow it up and left to Geezer's anchors.

Location

The right most route on the wall. Climb the left facing corner below the right side of the wide flake.

Protection

8 bolts to shared 2 open shuts.
S. Lucas   CA
Gorgeous new anchors on a fun lil' climb.

Big love for the mussy hooks and party responsible for placing them. This Bud's for you. May 11, 2017
Lena
Ojai, CA
Lena   Ojai, CA
Thank you so much for the anchor replacement!!
It was definitely a need. Much appreciated. Apr 7, 2017
JTLA Tolins
Los Angeles, California
 
JTLA Tolins   Los Angeles, California
 
New Anchors up as of yesterday (two 1/2" x 4" expansion bolts with steel beaners) . Also, just right of the fifth bolt there is a large block in the flake (about 1'x3') that has a fracture and looks like it may go soon. As an added bonus it's directly above where the belayer stands and there is really no good way for the belayer to get out of the way.

If someone was feeling inspired they could probably crowbar it off. Depending on how much comes off it may even be a good idea to move the fifth bolt afterward. Feb 24, 2017
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
Great climb! the underclinging is really fun! pretty slippery with all the chalk from the mass amounts of traffic...it actually leaved a stain on the wall...
the right anchor was worn about half way through and the left was good Apr 5, 2016
Wei-Li
Los Angeles, CA
Wei-Li   Los Angeles, CA
The anchors on this route are worn, one has rope wear almost half way through and the other, maybe about one-third of the way through. Sep 7, 2015
Jamie Umbras
Moab, UT
 
Jamie Umbras   Moab, UT
 
Great route, area classic for sure. 10a/b seems like a fair grade. Not to be missed. Feb 24, 2014
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga
Isla Vista, California
  5.9+
Bidimpata-Kerim Tshimanga   Isla Vista, California
  5.9+
Super fun route, though 10b feels like a little much. Once you get up the guillotine itself, it is one MASSIVE undercling most of the way up. Feet might be a little delicate but I think this route is more like 9+ or 10a. Again though, suuuuper fun route. Mar 25, 2013