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Routes in Evil Pillar

Hanzo,Sword of justice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mental Games Chimney S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necessary Evil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route of All Evil S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 5,344 total, 42/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 11, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

Climbs the obvious overhanging sculpted arete using balancey moves down low which lead to the upper section of jugs. If this thing went for another hundred feet or so it would be an all-time classic.

Location

Around and right from Route of All Evil on the east face of the formation.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Pretty cool route and steep for the grade. Great clipping stances and didn't find the need to stick clip or any shenanigans.

Speaking of shenanigans.... lowering through the anchor IMO should be avoided. This area (like most) does not see regular anchor replacement so it's up to us as climbers to be better stewards.

If cleaning is a hassle and you don't have a partner to clean the draws consider a second lap, cleaning it up the second time.

Another method for tricky cleans is similar to what [Jack] did but without lowering through the chains. Feed the rope through the chains and have your belayer ANCHOR the end going through the draws You can single line rap using the free end. If it's wonky, steep or traveling to an extreme side (like the route here) you can still clip your harness into the lead side rope to guide you through the bolt-line. The benefit is you're not creating any wear on the anchor above. This is handy to have in your tool-shed of skills when cleaning tough routes, those with bad or low angle top outs, scabby rock..... it will save not only wear on the anchors but the life of your rope. Feb 14, 2016
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
Pretty awesome climb!! it is really hard to clean...what i did was just untie, ran the rope through the rap rings, tied back in and then had my belayer lower me. When he was lowering i clipped a draw to my harness and the belay line which brought me down perfect to every clip. This is probably the best way to do it, if you aren't going to have someone follow/TR the route.
One of the best climbs for the grade in the area tho!
Nov 4, 2015
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
There are 6 bolts on here now, doesn't change the difference at all. I think there's one new one at the top so it's not such a runout to anchors.

OR one at the bottom so you don't accidently slip to your death before doing the move. Not sure... but there is now 6 bolts/hangers.

Pretty cool climb, first time I had to use a toe hook on a 10b.

Also a biaaaaaaatch to clean.. got more scratches up swinging around than actually climbing. Jan 26, 2015
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
Have not seen a Falcon guide Steve. But there is a Southern California Sport Climbing guide that covers this area. Feb 18, 2012
Steve Ziemer
Monrovia, CA
Steve Ziemer   Monrovia, CA
I've been climbing here for some time now and was wondering is there a Falcon Guide to all the routes in Apple Valley, Horsemans Center? The lackies at 5.10 outlet, Redlands, have no idea. Can you help? Feb 10, 2012
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
I'd recomend climbing up from the back and then reaching around and clipping the second bolt and then lowering off and then starting the climb like a stick clip. Also this one is a pain to clean, I'd have a buddy TR/Follow clean it. Oct 31, 2009