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Routes in (g) Slander Sector

Aftershock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
All Washed Up S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Babyface S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Defamation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drama S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fueled by Slander S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mudslinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shockwave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slander Magnet S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Sweetie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Ho S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Duc Ly, 2013
Page Views: 5,668 total · 116/month
Shared By: wizard Lee on Jan 11, 2014
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Starts a little chossy but gets better and continues up steep and varied terrain. Negotiate a couple bulges to a large ledge avoiding poor quality rock to the left. From the ledge, go up and then traverse left to gain a large flake at the base of an overhanging right facing wall. Climb pockets and jugs to a rest. Then up a tricky arete and back on a right face on more good holds onto a slab. Watch the rope and slab below as you pull the roof and up into an alcove. Some trad skills help a tricky and exposed finish gaining the anchors at the top of the cliff.

Location

Right of All Washed Up and left of Babyface

Protection

14 bolts to double chain draw anchors

Photos

wizard Lee
Costa Mesa, CA
 
wizard Lee   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Route is equipped with Fixe 12mm Triplex bolts, which have a tendency to have spinning hangers because of the design, even when the bolt is properly tightened. To fix the hanger, need to loosen the bolt, hammer the bolt in more, then tighten the bolt to 25 ft-lbs (as tight as possible with a short wrench, moderately tight with a mid-size wrench). I'll try to get to them some time soon. Dec 29, 2016
NathanS
Pomona Ca
  5.10a/b
NathanS   Pomona Ca
  5.10a/b
One of the bolts are a little loose . I tried to tighten it the best I could and next time I go out ill bring the proper tool with me. Please be safe! Dec 19, 2016
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
  5.10b
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
  5.10b
I feel like none of the moves are harder than V1, but its sustained nature gives it the 10b rating. 14 bolts of v1! Like it! It's would be awesome training route to lap. Dec 5, 2015
janjan
redlands, ca
  5.10a
janjan   redlands, ca
  5.10a
It was made after the most recent edition of the guide book, cleaned up just recently this year Benjamin. Great route, cleaning up nicely but best to belay wells to the climber's right to avoid falling pieces. The crux is definitely pumpy but not more than 10a. Apr 18, 2014
somillionaire Viradia
Los Angeles, California
  5.10b/c
somillionaire Viradia   Los Angeles, California
  5.10b/c
Once you know where to go this thing isnt that difficult, I think around 10b. I think other climbs like flexercise and wanderstuff are much more cruiser than this though and theyre rated higher. This is somewhat sustained and steep. For the roof, dont go left onto the face from the get go cause those moves are definitely not in the 10 range :0. Still some loose stuff too, especially higher up. Apr 5, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
after doing this route multiple times, I think it goes at 10a. I feel like there is only really 1 distinct crux on this route and it doesn't go any harder than moves on whammy or par up with crux move on flexercise. If you want to count in the length of the route along with the pump, the route has enough no hands rest before any real "10a" climbing begins.

oh and the hand jam! don't miss out on the hand jam! Feb 6, 2014
Ian McG
  5.10a/b
Ian McG  
  5.10a/b
Fun route, with varied and sustained movement. With some traffic, this route will no doubt clean up nicely- potentially rivaling the ever popular trundle trophy and flexercise as quality area warmups. Steep face climbing, mantels, overhanging bulges, and even bomber hand jam! Some sections may be spicy for somebody leading at the grade. Enjoy, but watch for loose bits on this new route. Jan 21, 2014