Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Java Wall

Americano S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caffeine S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cappuccino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Daily Grind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Daily Java S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Death Before Decaf S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
French Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Java S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kona S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ramp Route S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sumatra S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, Sean Zavala 1996
Page Views: 5,520 total · 39/month
Shared By: Meredith DB on Jul 2, 2006
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


61 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Start up the easy ramp, as for Espresso. From the top of the ramp, move right and climb a steep dihedral.

Location

Java Wall, right of Espresso.

Protection

12 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Maidy  
FYI:Open shut anchor replacement at Echo is EXTREMELY difficult and labor intensive. It's NEVER- a quick fix. It's the reason these anchors go so long without maintenance and can get so dangerous. PLEASE do not TR through any of the anchors. Please let folks know and tell them why they shouldn't do it.

PS:Having rap rings actually doesn't change the situation at Echo. People STILL take the time to re-thread and TR off the rings. I see ropes through rap rings almost every time I go down there. The lazy entitled mind-set needs to change-- not the type of anchor. The only true deterrent would be chains that are too small to TR through- which is a PIA to clean on steep routes. Jan 13, 2016
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.11b
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.11b
I appreciate the effort people put into keep these routes good and safe, but if you want people to not run the rope directly through the anchor, you need to use just bolts and rap rings. That's how the rest of the country does it. Open shuts or carabiners promotes this type of habit. We used draws to lower/TR and then rapped, but putting just rings helps to encourage everyone to do this. I think one of the 8s on left flank is just rings and its great. It's also safer for people TRing than having open shuts. Just my $0.02. Oct 18, 2015
Coon  
Bummer to hear what's going on with the anchors. Anyone know if there's a hike to rap point above this? Im assuming this is how they were put up. Apr 10, 2015
Was working Kona today (with spectacular lack of success). Looking over to the anchors on Caffeine caused me to shudder. Two nice guys and a girl has been top roping it just before I got on Kona (and they were top roping, properly, of slings, not the hooks). But once their slings were off the hooks I could see how bad they were. Obviously I was on a different route, so I was looking from several feet to the left, but I don't think I would top-rope off these, slings or no, and I know for sure I would not let my kids or wife do so. Grim. I'd replace them, but I'm afraid I'd botch the job. I've been climbing since 1982, but I've never placed a bolt. I'd be happy to chip in the money for the shuts and to belay and support someone who knows what he or she is doing. Ideally someone who has their shite dialed can school me on the nuances of bolt extraction, placement, and maintenance. There are several I'd be willing to address on routes I'm working or my kids are working. The hooks on Caffeine look like a time bomb. Feb 21, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Caffeine, Americano, Cappuccino, Espresso, what's the differencio??? The anchors are still being abused. For that matter, the anchors on ALL these climbs, and more, show significant wear/grooving to prove it. Echo Cliffs deserves better than this!! Dec 13, 2014
Joe Wysznski
  5.11b
Joe Wysznski  
  5.11b
The photo above is of Americano not Caffeine. Nov 16, 2014
Will Cornell
  5.11b
Will Cornell  
  5.11b
Just sent this route today.... anchors need to be replaced ASAP. Sep 29, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
We witnessed four parties toproping directly through the shuts on "Espresso," "Caffeine," "Bushwacked," and "The Hunger." When told it would be best to place their own draws/gear to preserve the anchors, their response was, "Yeah, we know." Another party responded, "my girlfriend only weighs 100 pounds and that won't wear the anchor much." But the practice continued on to other climbs for the remainder of the day. Better to hammer the shuts closed or replace the shuts with chains to discourage abuse of the anchors. Although, the party on "Bushwacked" took the time to thread their rope through the Fixe rings in order to TR directly through the anchor. Jun 16, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
anil
San Carlos
 
anil   San Carlos
 
The anchors on the top especially, the left looks it will snap anytime soon(3/2/2013). Beware if you're getting on this route and preparing to rappel. Mar 3, 2013
RussellG
  5.11b
RussellG  
  5.11b
In addition to rapping if you are going to 'top rope' put draws in and don't go directly off the hooks. Aug 7, 2012
People really need to start rapping off these anchors. the right anchor is worn almost 1/2 the way through. Oct 13, 2009

More About Caffeine

Printer-Friendly Guide