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Routes in Java Wall

Americano S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caffeine S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cappuccino S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Daily Grind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Daily Java S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Death Before Decaf S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Espresso S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
French Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Java S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kona S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ramp Route S Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Sumatra S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Louie Anderson
Page Views: 4,157 total, 30/month
Shared By: David Wang on Jun 12, 2006 with updates
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

"Espresso" is the long and impressive arete and face at the far left side of the Java Wall. There is a large loose looking block protruding from the face at the base. Begin climbing the short steep face, right of the block, to an easy slab section. From here, continue up the arete and make a short traverse left, to pull onto a shelf above the bulge. Follow the left line of bolts (Cappuccino goes straight up) on edges and small pockets on the gently overhanging wall. "Espresso" is one of the best long moderates at Echo Cliffs.

Protection

12 bolts, 3 shut anchor

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
Thanks for the heads up regarding the lead bolts.

The anchor up top was updated three days ago, and I’m going to return soon to finish removing the old hardware. I’ll tighten up those lead bolts while I’m there.

Folks are welcome to reach out directly if you know of anything needing attention:
info@ojaialex.com. Dec 4, 2017
There are a few spinning bolts on this. They don't seem too sketchy yet but perhaps someone with the tools can tighten/fix them. Dec 4, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Recent reports indicate that the three shuts at the anchor are wearing pretty thin. Wish folks would stop TRing directly through the shuts. May 7, 2016
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
  5.11a
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
  5.11a
The 2 shuts at the top of this route are fairly worn from people lowering and / or top roping off them.

Route info: 10-12 bolts. Fairly solid rock. The line starts at the extreme left of the java wall below the ramp. Two bolts lead up and onto the ramp. Follow the bolts up to the arete and crux bulge. The crux bolt's hanger is a bit loose (seemed fine though). Pull through this bulge clip a bolt then follow the bolts diagonally left. The route straight up is cappuccino (5.11c). The final part has good holds and feet, but is slightly overhanging causing it to be the enduro crux. Nov 26, 2007