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Routes in (f) Torture Machine Area

Adrenaline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conundrum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Whammy S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Conundrum S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House of Pain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Maximizer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Minimizer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Play S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Whammy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tangerine Dream S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Technicolor Tango S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Torture Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Vertigo S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Whammy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whammy Play S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonderstuff S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Page Views: 13,287 total, 100/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

A suberb mid-length route that features two distinct crux sections - the lower one with it's balancy, steep slab in the orange section and the upper one with strenuous liebacks and underclings as you fight the pump to the anchors on huge holds.

An area classic for the grade and one that should be on any climber's ticklist with it's varied climbing, stellar rock and thrilling exposure.

Location

Up the orange streak between Adrenaline and Technicolor Tango.

Protection

11 bolts, double ring anchors
Watch out for the big hollow/loose spike that you clip the anchor from! Dec 22, 2016
Chris Humphries   LA
 
Bolts and rings are still pretty rusty, but seemed solid enough to rap off. Some of the feet in the middle orange section seem to be getting a little smooth. Sep 5, 2015
stbrooks
San Luis Obispo, California
stbrooks   San Luis Obispo, California
Great climb, but unfortunately the anchors (rappel rings and chain)are covered in rust--as of 9/1/14. Sep 1, 2014
Andrewprime1 Arredondo
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Andrewprime1 Arredondo   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Yeah you can rap it with a 60m. Mar 16, 2012
Andrew Runion
Anaheim, CA
Andrew Runion   Anaheim, CA
Will a 60m rope be long enough to rap off this route? Mar 13, 2012
Brian Chastain
  5.10d
Brian Chastain  
  5.10d
Got on this today. It was a really fun sport route and made my first trip (today) to the Quarry a good one. Only crux is through the orange streak. After that is just a pump factor. Feb 24, 2012
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
Awesome route-crux to me is last move.... a little pumpy at end, but not too much. a couple of good rests... Jan 26, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
I wouldn't call it a jug haul, but also not thin. Plenty of good rests and well bolted. Nov 9, 2011
Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
  5.10+
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
  5.10+
Classic climb, one of the best at the quarry especially in the 10 range. May seem a little harder at first but just find the good holds, there's always one around. Jul 22, 2011
Pat C
Honolulu
  5.10b/c
Pat C   Honolulu
  5.10b/c
Fun Fun. I thought the hardest part was clipping my gear into the two-bolt anchor! The holds were all there, and pretty big the whole way. Totally fun climb though, get's the adrenaline going. Jun 6, 2009