Elevation: 1,122 ft
GPS: 37.641, -83.715 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 268,465 total · 6,306/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Jan 11, 2017
Admins: Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, DrRockso, Billy Simek

Description

In January 2017 the RRGCC purchased 102 acres guaranteeing access to some of the best and most famous areas that the RRG has to offer. The Motherlode, the Chocolate Factory, The Bear's Den and the Unlode. Climbing began at the Motherlode over 25 years ago, and has some of the steepest and hardest lines the Red has to offer. The purchase of this area secured access to 226 routes, ranging from 5.2 to 5.14c.

Working with the Access Fund the RRGCC purchased the approach to the cliffs for $235,000. However a substantial sum on the mortgage is still owed, so consider donating today. For more information or to donate see: rrgcc.networkforgood.com/pr…

Getting There

To get to the Bald Rock Recreational Preserve from Miguel's, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Turn right on to 498, and after about a mile turn right onto Bald Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment. Parking can be an issue at the top of the hill, so carpool if possible, and be sure not to block the roadway.

To get to the BRRP from Lago Linda's, turn right onto 399, turn right onto 52. From highway 52 turn left onto 498. After about 1 mile turn left onto Bald Fork Road.

Please slow down when driving past homes on Bald Rock Fork Road (aka the road that leads from 498 to the BRRP/PMRP). The speed limit on this road is 10 mph and driving too quickly creates dust which negatively affects the residents along the road.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the BRRP/PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle. In the fall of 2016, the hill down to the bottom was difficult without four wheel drive and good clearance.

Waiver and Rules

The Red River Gorge Climber's Coalition (RRGCC) asks that climbers at BRRP complete this online liability waiver/rules agreement before climbing at BRRP.

* As of June 2018, there is no overnight parking allowed on any Coalition properties (PMRP, BRRP, MFRP). Primitive camping is still allowed,
  just as long as you do not park a car there (i.e. dropped off or hike in).
* Do not park next to oil wells. Do not block oil wells or oil workers’ trucks.
* Please climb responsibly and follow “Leave No Trace” practices. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
* All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
* Stay off all tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
* Hike on established trails and do not mark or damage trees or  other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
* No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts is permitted.
* No operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
* No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat a forest fire in a region of
  numerous oil wells would pose.

216 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bald Rock Fork Recreational Preserve (BRRP)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 166
Grandpa Joe
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 215
Wonkaholic
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 229
EGBG
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 414
Oompa
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 182
Robotic Thumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 348
Loompa
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 171
The Glass Elevator
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 139
Hip to the Jive
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 64
Enkidu
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 132
Snozzberries
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 110
Chainsaw Massacre
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 70
J Rat's Back
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 91
Burlier's Bane
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 88
Swedish Fish
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 74
Ale-8-One
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grandpa Joe Chocolate Factory
 166
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wonkaholic Chocolate Factory
 215
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
EGBG Chocolate Factory
 229
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Oompa Chocolate Factory
 414
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Robotic Thumb Chocolate Factory
 182
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Loompa Chocolate Factory
 348
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Glass Elevator Chocolate Factory
 171
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Hip to the Jive Chocolate Factory
 139
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Enkidu Chocolate Factory
 64
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Snozzberries Chocolate Factory
 132
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Chainsaw Massacre Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 110
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
J Rat's Back Chocolate Factory
 70
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Burlier's Bane Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 91
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Swedish Fish Chocolate Factory
 88
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ale-8-One Motherlode > (5) Undertow Wall
 74
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Bald Rock Fork Recreational Preserve (BRRP) »

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