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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description



The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.



For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.

Getting There

See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Like a Nutter
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another Quick Shower
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lovely Snowball
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dancing Like a Nutter 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Another Quick Shower 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lovely Snowball 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wall 1 »

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Photos

Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :) May 31, 2015

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