GPS: 34.479, -119.706 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,201 total · 69/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)

The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.

The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.

For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.

The bulge-route starts

Getting There

See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wall 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Dancing Like a Nutter
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
Another Quick Shower
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
Lovely Snowball
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dancing Like a Nutter
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Another Quick Shower
 6
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Lovely Snowball
 15
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wall 1 »

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Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :) May 31, 2015
Ernest W
Camarillo, CA
Ernest W   Camarillo, CA
This wall should be re-named "Ant Wall". It was like some "Ants Take Over The World" movie yesterday - seemed like every crack on the wall had these biting ants streaming out of it. Did one route and moved to Wall 2 - no ants there! Mar 18, 2019