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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard Gérard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Christian Maurer, 3/10/13
Page Views: 407 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The thin-looking, ragged crack between Lovely Snowball and That Bastard Gérard that hits a mini roof about 1/3 of the way up. An excellent companion piece to Lovely Snowball that takes great gear all the way up---if you know where to look.



Start with a high-step rock over on the left foot to gain a hidden slot for a great first piece. (This might be the crux if you're shorter.) Follow this up to the roof, grab the undercling and make the slab step to the right and stay in this crack to the small oak. Move right again just past the oak and then go straight to the top. (Build an anchor using the big fat, flat-top chicken head and a double sling for your left side, and whatever you can sling or cam on the other side---hey, you're here to practice trad, right?) Have your 2nd come up and then traverse to the rap rings and start feeding the rope while you break down your anchor. Efficiency is a good thing...



[The original FA took the line left of the center oak and ended at the top of the loose chimney. That way is okay, but staying in the first cracks right of the oak, effectively finishing next to "That Bastard Gerard," makes this a more memorable route.]

Location

The first crack to the right of "Lovely Snowball"

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" is plenty.

Photos

Robert Holder
  5.7
Robert Holder  
  5.7
We went both left and right from the tree. Gear is better to the right, but climbing is fun to the left as well. We did not need gear >2", but it could be nice the have the options of the larger pieces. Jun 1, 2015