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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ches Upham, Chris Wing and Christian Hoffmann, 5/28/12
Page Views: 794 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The obvious and excellent straight-up crack line on the left of the wall. Definitely the standout here. Pro is a little iffy until about 30' up, but not an issue if you're solid at the grade.

Location

Far left route on Wall 1.

Protection

A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)
Robert Holder
  5.7
Robert Holder  
  5.7
Super fun route. Alternating sections of good crack (finger locks and/or good edges on the face) separated by big stances to set gear from. Nuts and cams below up to .75 are most useful. Sling larger blocks/knobs or make a gear anchor with pro up to 4" (you can leave the 3-4" pro at home if you have long slings/cordelette for the knobs/trees on top). Jun 1, 2015
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Yep, that sumac needs a haircut. ("Soon," says Bueller...). Since you're here, I highly recommend getting on "Another Quick Shower" just to the right. Not to be missed if you're hanging out at Wall 1. Jul 29, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.7+
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.7+
I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure. Jul 27, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This route was the stand-out during a thoroughly enjoyable half-day spent at Panic Town. The first 2/3 of this route are simply incredible--the best and most interesting moderate crack climb that I have done this side of J-Tree or the Southern Sierra. Absolutely incredible.

Rather than climb through a tree near the top, we headed up and right, following a crack. This variation was very enjoyable and avoided the tree altogether.

The base of this wall is really nice--cool and shaded with open, flat ground. May 13, 2014