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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ches Upham, Chris Wing and Christian Hoffmann, 5/28/12
Page Views: 794 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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The obvious and excellent straight-up crack line on the left of the wall. Definitely the standout here. Pro is a little iffy until about 30' up, but not an issue if you're solid at the grade.


Far left route on Wall 1.


A rack of singles to 4" and a few extra finger pieces if you want to sew it up. (Pink, red & brown tri-cams and/or some offset nuts work well, too.)
Robert Holder
Robert Holder  
Super fun route. Alternating sections of good crack (finger locks and/or good edges on the face) separated by big stances to set gear from. Nuts and cams below up to .75 are most useful. Sling larger blocks/knobs or make a gear anchor with pro up to 4" (you can leave the 3-4" pro at home if you have long slings/cordelette for the knobs/trees on top). Jun 1, 2015
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
Yep, that sumac needs a haircut. ("Soon," says Bueller...). Since you're here, I highly recommend getting on "Another Quick Shower" just to the right. Not to be missed if you're hanging out at Wall 1. Jul 29, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree with Matthew: one of the more engaging routes in the area of this grade and style. I also agree with Matthew's "variation" suggestion towards the top. As with many routes at Panic Town, you can climb left or right on to adjacent routes. Call it choose-your-own-adventure. Jul 27, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
This route was the stand-out during a thoroughly enjoyable half-day spent at Panic Town. The first 2/3 of this route are simply incredible--the best and most interesting moderate crack climb that I have done this side of J-Tree or the Southern Sierra. Absolutely incredible.

Rather than climb through a tree near the top, we headed up and right, following a crack. This variation was very enjoyable and avoided the tree altogether.

The base of this wall is really nice--cool and shaded with open, flat ground. May 13, 2014