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Wall 1

California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > Panic Town

Description

Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)

The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.

The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.

For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.

The bulge-route starts

Getting There

See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● Le Petit Oiseau Mort
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Le Grande (L'Extension)
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
● Lovely Snowball
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Another Quick Shower
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
● That Bastard Gérard!
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
● The Bar is Open
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Dancing Like a Nutter
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 0
● More Romantic than Casablanca
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● You Old Fool
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 1
● Come On, Animals!
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Cinque Briquettes (variation)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Cinquante Briques
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
 0
● A Slight Problem Along the Way
Trad, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Le Petit Oiseau Mort
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Le Grande (L'Extension)
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Lovely Snowball
 20
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Another Quick Shower
 7
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● That Bastard Gérard!
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● The Bar is Open
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Dancing Like a Nutter
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● More Romantic than Casablanca
 0
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● You Old Fool
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Come On, Animals!
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c TR
● Cinque Briquettes (variation)
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Cinquante Briques
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● A Slight Problem Along the Way
 0
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X Trad, Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Most of the Wall 1 routes.
[Hide Photo] Most of the Wall 1 routes.
The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors at P-Town are primarily Fixe 1/2" rings on 4-6" 5-piece bolts. (And no, these weren't painted on the wall--the color shift is just dust from the drilling.)
[Hide Photo] The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors at P-Town are primarily Fixe 1/2" rings on 4-6" 5-piece bolts. (And no, these weren't painted on the wall--the color shift is just dust from the d…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Robert Holder
[Hide Comment] Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :) May 31, 2015
Ernest W
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] This wall should be re-named "Ant Wall". It was like some "Ants Take Over The World" movie yesterday - seemed like every crack on the wall had these biting ants streaming out of it. Did one route and moved to Wall 2 - no ants there! Mar 18, 2019