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Routes in Wall 1

A Slight Problem Along the Way T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 X
Another Quick Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bar is Open, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cinquante Briques T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Come On, Animals! TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dancing Like a Nutter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lovely Snowball T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
More Romantic than Casablanca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
That Bastard GĂ©rard! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You Old Fool T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Mahoney and Mark Buntaine
Page Views: 195 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Mahoney on Jul 29, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From the top of "Le Petit Oiseau Mort," walk the thin plank straight right passing a deep, pod/hole (that will almost take gear) to the first crack, then head straight up, encountering diagonal seams and a short, two-move lieback, finishing on face moves for the last 15' or so. Sling the big boulder in combo with a #2 in the crack for a comfy anchor. Walk off down the gully or cross over to the rap rings.

From the top of "Le Petit" cross right and then head up the first crack and then the face above that.

Location

The obvious thin crack left of "Lovely Snowball" past the bench rock.

Protection

Nothing bigger than a #2, but a couple of additional small cams will ease the mind.

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